Sent to us by ivyinvestor:
My wife and I currently have a 2006 Acura TSX, auto. We need another car, but our budget is $5000, tops, as we don’t want a payment. We’ve never considered a used car for any purchase, and although I know the various means we could use to go about checking it out, I develop neverending lists of queries about every aspect of the car in question to the point that some sellers stop answering. After all, the depreciation’s been factored in, but what about maintenance, treatment, and care? I know not all the questions can be answered, but we still want something bred from reliable, if not “amazing to drive”, roots. In the Boston area, it seems our best options are 1998-2002 Civics, maybe some older Accords, and a few Mazdas, all with 125,000+ miles. Does this appear to be in the right ballpark? Reliability is important, as is fun, though we realize the latter might need to be sacrificed in this price range. (Recent example: 2000 Civic EX coupe, standard, 155k miles, timing belt at 100k, brakes at 130k, probably needs rear tires, original clutch: $3800, local.)
I’m selling my 2002 VW Golf in this price range if you’re interested. 125,000 miles, timing belt changed at 105,000, brakes changed at 120,000, tires changed at 100,000, good condition, surprisingly reliable, fun to drive. $4,000 OBO.
for $5000 can’t you get a 2 yr lease on something new and basic? If you are looking at 125k mile used they aren’t going to last longer than 2 yrs without high cost repair anyway (If that long)
Go with an older model Civic or Integra. Something like the example listed…very fun to drive and great return on fuel economy. Pretty comfortable considering the age and roots, I drove a 90 Integra across the US back in 01 and it performed wonderfully…my back started to get sore around Wyoming though.
You usually can’t go wrong with a used Civic, a friend of mine bought a ’02 Civic a few years ago used and even though it was in a pretty serious accident it still runs well and she has had no repairs. She commutes into the city everyday with it. No hiccups.
Also, while not as fun to drive, a Corolla or Prism (which is usually cheaper because it’s a “Chevy”) is a good bet as well.
I’m not sure about long term reliability on Mazdas though… that’s more hit or miss from my friend’s experiances. I have had a Miata for about a year now with no problems, but my friend’s ’04 Mazda3 has had a transmission replacement already and some electrical issues.
Stick to Toyota or Honda, maybe Mazda or Subaru. I would not go near a car with over 100K mileage.
We’re in the same situation and starting to look. Around here (upstate NY) I often see Accord coupes going cheaper than Civics of similar mileage/condition, and while it wouldn’t work out well as our primary, I keep thinking they’d make a better 2nd car than the Civic. Easier to look at, better ride/drive.
I just bought a 2002 Mazda Millenia L with 65k miles for $4000 on an eBay “no reserve” auction. Paid cash…my situation was very similar. Of course, the car test drove great. Then I got home and (long story) discovered it had transmission issues…no wonder he sold it so cheap. However, he lied, and I could prove it…so I filed my claim with Auction Insurance via eBay and they paid for a transmission rebuild. In the end, I got a 2002 Millenia with 65k and a newly rebuilt tranny.
So you can find some real good deals in that price range if you allow yourself time and patience.
IMO the best bang for the buck used cars are usually domestics. Well cared for Tauri, Buick Centurys and the like can be a real bargain if you choose the example very carefully.
The lowest-mileage, most un-crashed Toyota (or Lexus, but you’re looking at a pretty old Lexus for $5k) you can find in your area. There will be a lot. Consumer Reports was fond of the 2001-2004 Echo and the 2001 Tacoma.
Just looking at what’s available in the Boston area on Auto Trader, I see scads of 2000 and up Foci, Taruses, Cobalts, and other domestics with well under 100k on the odometer for around $6,000. I know you want to be around $5,000 but maybe they’ll deal a little for a cash-in-hand deal. Anyway, all of these cars are good, if not exciting, cars and I’d personally rather buy a lower mileage domestic than spend the same money on a Honda with well over 100k on the clock. Newer Ford and GM vehicles are by and large good cars, and great values on the used market because their resale values drop like a rock. I think you should at least look at some to see what you think, you could get a lot more car for the money that way, and with less miles you’ll likely have less things that will need work.
Infiniti G20. This unloved little car was a stupid attempt at near-luxury introduction to Infiniti, but it is a great car. My three have all been reliable as an Anvil, and they are a pleasure to drive . . . not exciting, but comfortable and interactive. Get it with a five speed and you will get over 30MPG on the highway.
Compared to other cars suggested, this one will be more comfortable and just as reliable. Do not be afraid of 100,000 miles. Just have a mechanic check them out, and you will enjoy your car for a long time. (I prefer driving the first generation model, but those are getting a bit old, even for a skinflint like me.)
I know you probably don’t want to be seen dead in a GM product, but…… you could buy a very clean, low miles, used Buick or Caddy from a geezer for that much money, or less. The reliability of such a late model sled is not so bad, although you shouldn’t expect any type of driving excitement. If all you want is basic transportation, that makes you invisible, the above mentioned cars are excellent bargains.
While a domestic sedan is a great used value, the FUN qoutient is left behind in those…something important to the requestor.
I donno, if all the Civics you find are that worn out for that price, get a first generation Focus. Just as fun, almost as durable and a bit cheaper.
Hell, I’ve seen decent SVT Foci sell for $5000.
I was just looking at this price point for a realtive. In Cleveland area good candidates would be ’00 – ’03 Pontiac Grand Prix or any other GM W-Body with 3800 Series II normally aspired engine. Or Taurus from ’00 and newer. You can buy them at 90K miles or lower and, if you don’t mind occasionally dropping $200 – $300 for a brakes job, or some sensor, or a power window motor, or power lock actuator, drive another 60K – 90K miles.
It’s just amazing how high milage and spartan equipped are Civics and Corollas in this price range.
Althogh, your milage in Boston might vary.
I second the third gen.(1999-’06?) VW golf (or jetta)Get a 5spd for superior reliability. You won’t believe how much better it is to drive than a civic or accord! Try it, you’ll like it!
I’ve got an ’89 Accord DX I’d let go for $4999.00. ’bout 102k miles. Really, really nice condition (it was Pappy Kint’s pride ‘n joy).
It does (will) need a fuel pump (it intermittently looses some pressure causing an occasional stumble but no stall).
Dealer wanted $350 for the pump but then the story got interesting at that point (interesting in the Chinese proverb sense)– maybe a potential Piston Slap quandary.
Just runnin’ it up the flagpole– it is almost Independence Day, after all…
I just picked up a 1997 Mazda Miata with 82,000 miles for $4,495 two months ago. I probably overpaid a bit, but my guidelines (1996 or 1997 Miata (the NB is girly looking and really just a cosmetic refresh) with manual transmission and under 100,000 miles) were pretty narrow so I didn’t have a lot of choice.
And I live in Chicago, so don’t tell me about snow, I’ve seen snow tires on OEM wheels for $200 recently on CraigsList.
The Miata is a great, bulletproof car, but you could also easily get a 1998+ V6 F-body Camaro or Firebird with under 100,000 miles for under $5,000.
If you just want a universal Japanese sedan then you should be able to get something relatively loaded, definitely 2002+, with under 100,000 with your budget.
Also, remember that the Prism and Vibe are Toyotas.
Like this:
http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/ctd/1246598660.html
Which would be way overpriced in Chicago, but it’s one of the better prices I found in a quick search in Boston.
“I know you probably don’t want to be seen dead in a GM product, but……”
Has it got that bad already!!??
An 89 Accord DX for $4999.00? So does that mean my 98 Accord LX with 94K could sell for $8000.50?
Hot damn!
If you live in the Boston area I assume that parking is an issue? You might want to check out zipcar.com if you only need the occasional 2nd vehicle. Assigned parking space, no worries about maintenance, gas, insurance, etc. 5G could last you a while depending on exactly how often you need a 2nd. Even if you still feel like you need to own a 2nd, zipcar could buy you some time until you find a really sweet deal.
+1 on the zipcar thought.
We’re a one car household and I’m a tech consultant that is lucky enough to have all my clients accessible via public trans. (aka the “T”)
A potential client is emerging north of Boston in Wilmington. For a 2x/month visit zipcar just may fit the bill for me.
I second the geezer route. It’s amazing what $5k or less will buy if you could deal with a domestic. From the Ford family you should be able to land not-too-weathered Taurus/Sable/Crown Vic/Grand Marquis…
oh and I bet the early Fusions and Mazda6s are in that neighborhood….
VerbalKint : I’ve got an ‘89 Accord DX I’d let go for $4999.00. ’bout 102k miles. Really, really nice condition (it was Pappy Kint’s pride ‘n joy).
And that sweet little baby will be your pride ‘n joy for many years to come, at that asking price. :)
Saab 9000. For 5 large, you could find a decent Aero. Would make everything else about as fun as a cavity search. The two I’ve owned have been as reliable as a bag of hammers. Turbo fun, lots of space for cargo and people, 32 highway mpg. Live a little.
Personally, I think Kias are underrated. I’m still kicking myself for not picking up (or at least evaluating) a clean-looking Sportage with stick that was about 7 years old, under 100K miles and asking $2K. Even if you had to sink some money into it later (a clutch is a possibility), it would likely still be a good deal. Mediocre fuel economy, I expect.
The newer FWD Volvos are troublesome, compared to the older RWD ones, I believe, but you might consider one. There’s an ’01 S80 with 99K on CarSoup, here, asking $3300. Could be problems or damage, of course, but maybe it’s a deal. Sometimes, the RWDs with the 6-inine are available at reasonable prices (they don’t show up often because they’re fairly scarce). Friends had an S80 and liked it (it was a T5 or T6 – lots of power) but totalled it and are now driving a Camry hybrid. I should ask them why.
I’d give those some thought but I’d also get a mechanic to look at it and I’d consult CR to see how they stack up, long-term.
Mazda 626s were inexpensive around here for a time. I also thought those were underrated. I should have bought the one I looked at that had low miles and a dent in the roof. I mean, who cares? The paint wasn’t breached (looked like damage from a basketball), so rust wasn’t likely to be an issue. Those cars get plus points for rear seat room.
From one Northerner to another, imports are not rust-proof.
My point? If you’re going to buy a 2nd car that you’re going to hold onto for a while, you can find a younger domestic with less miles on it, probably for cheaper than any old, high-mileage Honda or Toyota.
The Focus is a good suggestion, and I’m going to put my flame suit on and suggest the Neon as well. In both cases, it’s probably safe to avoid 00 and 01 MY cars. Both can be fun to drive, and all of the reliability horror stories you hear about them were by and large fixed by 2002.
Oh, while we’re on the subject of domestic compacts, screw the Cavalier and Cobalt. I’ve had plenty of experience with both, and they’re both unpleasant to drive and trash.
Here’s a twist on the original premise: “What 3rd vehicle that’s old enough to qualify for antique/show insurance”.
See, a major cost of the discretionary vehicle is insurance…in a few years, perhaps close to the purchase price.
I have a ratty old ’85 Plymouth Voyager that I store my folk festival gear in (and go to them in) and which serves as the backup vehicle. It’s long past any real value so I can carry only the most basic insurance AND because it’s so old I get half price show insurance for the 25 year geezer that it is.
Many of us would like a van or a pickup but the extra insurance is prohibitive….so this question boils down to “What’s a reliable OLD van or pickup that you can get super cheap insurance on”. Does anyone know the car age breaks for show or antique insurance?
Mazda Protege
2005 or 2006 Suzuki Forenza, around 40000-50000 miles. Transferable 100,000 mile warranty.
I vote for the last Chevy Prizms. They are nicer, more refined cars than a Civic but not as durable. Still an easy 200k car. Poor brand equity makes the Chevy version cheaper than a Corolla. Parts are cheap and very common. Had a 97 Civic EX and it was incredibly durable but zero on the fun to drive scale. Prizm is actually more fun (still zero).
I second the Saab recommendation, but I say go with a 9-3 (despite being a 9000 fan myself). For $5K, you should be able to pick up a 2000-2002 with 75-100K miles.
Most come well equipped with leather, sunroof, heated seats, etc, higher trim levels have automatic climate control and other good stuff. All have turbos, satisfying the fun to drive factor. As an added bonus, you will find the hatchback is very handy for hauling anything that won’t fit in the back of the TSX.
Best of all, the design was first launched in 1994 (as the 900, renamed to 9-3 in 1999), so 2000-2002 was the end of the model run and all the bugs had been worked out – they’re actually quite reliable.
Why not a 9000? Sadly, there aren’t many left in good shape, and even those that still look good will probably require a fair amount of age-related maintenance (most are automatics, and unlike the 9-3’s Aisin auto, the 9000’s 4-speed ZF unit is rather suspect) and then rust out on you after a year or two in Boston.
My mom (on Long Island) recetly totaled her Buick Century. I bought her a 1999 Olds Cutlass to replace it for $4500. It was a deal, owned by an old man who only put 60k on it. The passenger and rear seats look like they’ve never been sat in.
This is the same car as the Chevy Malibu. Mom should hopefully get a few years out of it.
Mercury Grand Marquis / Lincoln Town Car. It will give you great reliability, good gas on the highway (25 mpg) and will last easy over 200,000 miles. If needed, maintenance and parts are easy to find and cheap.
@turbosaab
The 9-3 is a good call, my ’99 was a fun car and reliable. 9000’s are getting scarce, but they are out there if you know where to look. saabnet.com has a pretty active classified section. I will disagree on one point – rust. My current ’96 is rust free inside and out after spending its whole life in Mass. My previous ’98 CSE was also a rust free Mass. car. My experience with all the 9000’s I’ve seen is that the bodies hold up very well, which when coupled with the B234 engine, makes these cars pretty bulletproof.
I second turbosaab’s recommendation for a 9-3 – but not a ’94-’98 900. Despite the appearance on the outside the two are very different, and the 9-3 has many updates and changes that make it a superior car.
As the owner of a 9000 Aero, I also have to warn against them, unless you find a good one – while mine has been reliable and a wonderful ownership experience, many out there have been neglected or poorly maintained.
You should be able to find a decent Altima (2000ish) if you look around. If you feel like going North American, there are some pretty decent Intrigue’s and Alero’s at that price. In my ‘hood there is also a 60 Ford Ranch Wagon with a 390 and a 3 speed that just needs some fresh paint (just think you could haul stuff and haul ass).
I don’t know about reliable, but “fun to drive”, you can get a 2000 BMW 323i for a bit over $5k in the Boston area. Or a late 90’s 3 series for well under $4k. The 323i is a bit underpowered IMO, but still an inline 6, with DSC. Ours handled the snow well with winter tires. If it were me, I would save up a little more and get at least a 328 or a 01 330xi. The ’99 3 series did not have DSC so I wouldn’t consider it for safety reasons.
You can also get early 99/2000 Audi A4s and A6 for around that price and those are pretty good as well. They’re very good with the AWD for the snow. Another option I would consider is 02+ Jaguar X-Type, again with AWD.
Late 80’s Porsche 944, but maintenance cost will be an issue. 2000 Volvo S80.
Buick Roadmaster. Those can be fun, if you’re into that sort of thing.
Hey, folks, I’m Geoff, the original poster.
I really appreciate the comments – thanks so much for considering our situation.
Since I originally wrote to Robert requesting assistance from the TTAC community, we’ve been able to drive a large number of vehicles. We narrowed the choices by using Carfax, although we know that service is fallible (still, it helped).
We were surprised how many vehicles – found using many sources – had reasonably hefty accident reports, poor maintenance, and overall dismal appearances (both mechanically and cosmetically). Granted, $5k won’t (generally – :P ) buy a mint Porsche, but it’s a reasonable sum for a used ride, we thought.
Most of the Hondas we drove of the ~2000 vintage were still solid and in good shape – all with original clutches, but other cars just didn’t seem to hold up that well, including a variety of supposedly “easily driven and garaged-in-winter” Miatas from 1994-1999 and (surprisingly) the Accords from 1998-2002.
We looked at a few pieces of detroit iron, too, but nothing really stuck out as a good value proposition. Also, I appreciate the folks’ suggestions of VWs and Saabs. I’ve always had a soft spot for the old 900s models, especially, but several of my friends have had models from both these marques over the last 15 years and endured too much hassle – mainly with electrical problems, but a few with truly unique problems. I fully realize that Hondas can blow head gaskets, too, and leak, etc: but I don’t know anyone who’s experienced that…
The two best performers ended up a 1997 Accord LX 4DR/auto with 38k miles and a 2000 Civic EX 2DR 5spd with 46.7k miles. I think we’ll go with the latter, as long as the independent mechanic check goes well (hopefully tomorrow morning), and as long as they take our offer, which ended up at a touch under $5k.
Thanks very much, TTAC community…Should anything troubling evolve, I’ll write again. :)
Good choice! My recommendation would be a 2004/2005 Hyundai Sonata — lots of clean reasonable mileage cars for under $5k. Or, a Subaru if AWD is a requirement.
Twotone
I hate to say it, but choosing the Civic is the classic case of boredom trumping all.
My parents are like that, getting one Honda / Acura after another.
Given that new cars have huge rebates now and old cars actually went up in price due to the C4C program, it make more sense to purchase a brand new Fit/Yaris/Versa. Whichever has the most rebate.
Just bought a 2000 Honda Passport 3.2 v6 auto with 4×4. 113k miles. This thing has zero rust, leather that has no worn areas or rips, perfect carpet still. The engine bay is spotless and the sunroof doesn’t leak. The paint is in excellent condition with no oxidized spots.
5,000 bucks.
The only downsides are:
Drivers window is missing some weatherstripping letting in wind noise (easy fix)
Needs an alignment.
Transmission *thunks* every now and then when taking off from a stop. Will probably need a tranny at some point. I’ll do the same thing we did with our 2000 Accord, get a transmission from a junkyard and have it installed for 1000.
I don’t know about where you live but I think I can find a decent 528i for that money here in RI. I say get something fun and somewhat reliable, like an E39, E36 or E34. The Accord is an ok car, I also like the Solara and Maxima/I30 is ok with rims. Civis do save gas and have fun shifters. Lexus Es300 is an ok car also. Then the Audi A4.
Really I say the Bimmers. Not the most luxuty or perhaps, but really a lot of car for the money.
$5K is other peoples problems, if not now then a year or 2 later. Can you afford that?
Even a pos Aveo or Rio for $9K new for it’s 3 year warranty may be better.
Your first concerm is the engine Interference type, if yes u need to ascertain that the belt will last or a new one be installed very soon, bfore u put pedal to metal.
Few yrs ago a heavy duty mech was so arrogant that I dont needed it.
A mth later I was sitting on the side of the road waiting for a Tow truck. It costed me close to 200.
That Honda Civic was a great little car, 5 spd, easy on gas, peppy, likes to rev like Le Mans machine.
I had spend a few bucks on her a new clutch, ball joint. The BJ was not a $20 piece, was 2 bills, since it came riveted to the lower control arm. And is the pull away type, not BJ press against each others, so if it came lose it will ultimately cause the front wheel to come off!
Or buy an old Merc Oel burner from pre 86.
Reason it has all iron heads so it will outlast anything.
Cheap to run, will even take mix used vege oel.
If u have 5 g budget, can find one for couple of Gs. Save the rest for incidental fees.
Low maint, built to last. Desigend for long time but not good time.
FloorIt-
See, that “other people’s problems” line is was still gets me. That’s why I’ve always held a certain amount of distrust (justified or not, probably oftentimes a bit of both) for the “pre-owned” market.
Do you really think we’d be better served with a Rio? It starts at $11.5k – which is double our budget. It seems relatively unlikely, even to my jaded mind, that a garaged Civic with 47.6k miles would need so many repairs in two years that it’d warrant purchasing the bottom rung of Kia. Also, we’re going to have a full inspection run by a reputable mechanic, including compression test, etc, that would allow us to halt any prospective transaction…
What say you, TTACers?
Between the Rio and the used Civic, the latter clearly makes more sense. Speaking anectodally, of course, everyone I know who’s purchased a Kia has been burnt, and badly – cheesed off on all sides by poor craftsmanship, ghastly interior quality and niggling engine issues.
But you’ve got a stable and sensible car in the TSX, so maybe something a little more adventurous? Life is short, and you are asking on what is ostensibly a car enthusiast website. :)
http://www.beaterreview.com/?p=32 Plastic Fantastic: 1991-2002 Saturn S-Series
Yep, I like the old SL2 with the dual overhead cam. Its peppy for a beater (compared to other small cars in its class)
You might have to look a bit to find one in good shape but if you do I think it’s worth considering.
I agree with Floorit –
One initial comment – If it’s used, and you buy a vehicle with well under 100K miles, buy Suzuki, to get the 100,000 mi drivetrain warranty.
Otherwise, get the base Kia or Hyundai or Nissan Versa or Sentra. The 1.8 Versa now has 2500 in rebates, so you can get em low cost. You spread your payments out, interest rates are low now, and you get the assurance your car has not been abused. Rebates have been high on Kia Spectra (may have ended), so you get the Spectra for the same price as the Rio. There are some leftover 2008 Hyundai and Kia cars around at great prices.
Used – Suzuki (whatever model). New – Nissan, Hyundai, Kia. If buying a Nissan, get the 4 speed auto or stick, don’t buy a CVT.
ivyinvestor: One thing to watch for in Civics of the age you’re looking at are exhaust manifolds cracking between cylinders 2 and 3, close to the oxygen sensor bung. Make sure that you/mechanic look for this on inspection. Expensive to replace because the cat is integrated into the manifold so both must be replaced.
Mike66C.-
Thanks much for the warning.
Best,
Geoff
Speaking as an Audi owner and fan, avoid Audi at all costs. Audi quality flat out sucked from the mid ’90s right up through around 2003. I have an ’04 A6, pretty much the only year the C5 A6 was ever reasonably reliable. Audis now are actually pretty good, but something like a ’99 A4 is a recipe for PAIN. That goes double if it’s a 1.8T.
I would just avoid German in general, Saab as well. Your best bet is that Civic. Some of the older Accords (and Acuras) are known for grenading transmissions, and you never know when that’s going to happen. Watch out for ignition coils on older VQ Nissans. The Rio is a piece of crap.
If you can find a Q45 that doesn’t have a million miles on it, those tend to hold up very well and don’t hold their value like an LS400.
Didn’t the Saturn motors have a timing chain as opposed to a belt? That could be a bonus when looking for a high mileage beater.
the civic sounds like a good choice if everything checks out, although an older 5sp Maxima is a nice 2nd as well
A second-gen Dodge Stratus with the 2.4L DOHC 4-inline and the 5-speed manual transmission :)
You drive an Acura? If you care to venture to the dark side, look at Chevrolet Cobalt, or Pontiac G5 Pursuit. They have motors with actual power, timing chains, not belts, stainless exhaust, the important things. If you are lucky, you might find one with rollup windows. They don’t wear an import badge, but they have depreciated like yesterday’s produce, and the reliability of their powertrains is at least above average.
If you buy a used Toyota, be prepared for paint issues. (Google Toyota paint problems).
I agree with the 9000 comment. To answer your statement about various electrical problems and such, 9000’s were generally owned when new by people that could afford to fix every little thing, and they did. So you are very unlikely to end up with one that still has the electrical gremlins you fear. I would just suggest taking any potential purchase to an independent Saab mechanic.
Also, in my opinion, a worn out Saab will almost always be more a more engaging and enjoyable drive than anything else even remotely near the same price range.
Under $5000? Hey, thats my street. Fun to drive? Thats my house! For that money I’d buy an 89-91 BMW 325is (E30). I’ve had these for years and they’re the only BMW I’d own outside of a warranty.
$5k will get you an excellent 325is, well maintained (possibly by the dealer), garage-kept, low miles, and you may actually get one from the original owner. These cars are good on gas, fun to drive, and hold together very well. As long as the timing belt is replaced per maintenance schedule, 325s will go 300k miles or more. Other parts that eventually go out on all used cars, like water pump, alternator, shocks, etc.. are inexpensive as the E30 was made in huge numbers and there are a lot still on the road.
From my experience and others owners I know, these cars are almost bulletproof. Supposedly this was the last BMW model designed with the old school durability plus engineering method. I think BMW’s following three-series model was the first to use computer aided drafting. Which, ah didnt work out so well once the cars got up in years (e36).
Anyhoo, E30s are great cars. Check locally for a good one, and drive it. Have it checked out if you like it. BMW dealers have a used-car inspection program that costs about $150. Also, there is a big online support network for them.
You can get Saab 9-5’s with the fantastic 2.3T motor for under $5k if you look, they’re so cheap. But they can be troublesome.
Honestly, I’d say: 94-97 Honda Accord EX sedan, loaded, five speed manual. Would be perfect.
Saab 9000 Aero? That would be killer. I’d get a 9000 Aero with a 5-speed. Best seats in the world.
It might be a stretch, but you could probably find a late ’90s Prelude for under $5k. And of course, there’s also the venerable Tiburon (friend to broke college boys everywhere) – with luck you might be able to swing an ’03 or so. Lots more potential for previous hoonage in these cars than in a Civic, but at least they’d be harder to lose in a parking lot.
EDIT: seconding the Protege suggestion. Heck, even CR likes the things.
How is it that no one has suggested a final generation Honda Prelude?
Here is a one owner 1997 Prelude SH for 3500 with 146k miles on the clock
http://boston.craigslist.org/nwb/cto/1249681295.html
5k will get u a 1998 car with 99k miles
http://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/cto/1244038690.html
Supercharged Millenias are great cars for the cash. Not to sound like a tool, but Consumer Reports recommends them.
3950 for 88k miles on a 1997 model
http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/ctd/1245379388.html
4500 for 80k miles on a 1999 model
http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/cto/1238744852.html
4900 for 95k miles on 2000 model
http://www.herbconnollyacura.com/vehicle.aspx?id=3680
If the Millenia is not enough fun, go for a Contour SVT. The 1999 and 2000 cars are better made and the cars to go for.
3500 gets you a 2000 with 106k miles
http://providence.craigslist.org/ctd/1250261620.html
Steven Lang recommends the Lexus SC300 with a stick, if they can be found. They seem to plentiful in Boston
5000 for a car with no milage in the ad tho
http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/cto/1250775010.html
3300 for a car with 171k miles but no mechanical issues
http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/cto/1246066176.html
An Infiniti G20 will be fairly reliable and fairly fun to drive. It is a fair car at a fair price.
5000 for a 2000 with 73k miles is a great deal.
http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/ctd/1250675064.html
4200 will get u a car with 147k miles from 1999. The reason it is pricey is it is a G20, the T stands for touring. It gets you a good limited slip dif.
http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/ctd/1248723290.html
The Acura 2.5TL has a gem of a 5 cylinder engine. Inherited from the Vigor it doesnt have the head gasket issues of its smaller siblings.
1800 gets u a car with 150k miles from 1996.
http://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/cto/1247792713.html
3500 gets u a 1998 car.
http://providence.craigslist.org/ctd/1244942345.html
The Acura Vigor was replaced by the TL which got its engine.
A 1993 Vigor with 130k miles is 1300 bucks
http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/ctd/1245753380.html
Last and very much least we have any car with a Buick supercharged 6. Its reliable, and fast in 1 direction. Not much fun to drive but cheap examples can be had from older owners.
3500 for a 1999 Buick Regal with 93k miles.
http://boston.craigslist.org/nwb/cto/1249200503.html
1998 Pontiacs had these engines as enthusiasts pick them up from grandparents. A couple of enthusiast owners are selling theres.
An example with 150k miles is 3000
http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/cto/1239266915.html
This one had an engine rebuild and so far only has 40k miles. It costs 3000 as well.
http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/cto/1245642893.html
Re: WSN
Only trade-ins that get less than 18 mpg combined qualify for cash for clunkers.
But the new car qualifies as long as it gets 4 mpg better than the trade-in, or at most 22 mpg combined (if the trade-in got 12 combined then the new car would only have to get 16 to qualify).
If anything cash for clunkers is going to reduce discounts on new cars.
Cash for clunkers will probably end up lowering prices for used cars that get more than 18 mpg, since people with old gas guzzlers have more incentive to buy new now.
Pontiac Vibe or Geo Prizm (depending on what you’re able to find, and whether you want to have anything left of your $5,000 to cover the kinds of repairs all used cars generally need) — all the quality of a Toyota product (both Corollas) without the markup associated with Toyota products.
Late 80’s Porsche 944, but maintenance cost will be an issue.
That’s an understatement.
Buick Roadmaster. Those can be fun, if you’re into that sort of thing.
I would proabaly buy a Roadmaster Wagon for that price if I was looking for a second car and could find an attractive deal on one.
I’d get a older chevy 454 4×4 dually with a save the planet sticker on the rear glass, and some greatful dead dancing bears around that message
Just the parts for any Saab are very expensive. In my experience, only specialists will work on them so you can imagine how much that adds up. I owned a 900S for a few years. I loved the car to death, and wish I’d kept it, but I’d never recommend it as a cheap second car. When that old tank did break, however rarely, it was always a big bill.
Yeah, it’s not the most soulful car, but that’s not the point here– get the Civic with the manual. You can’t go wrong as long as it hasn’t been thrashed to death. Nearly anything else will be a money-pit.
… and I can’t believe people are suggesting older Audis, and Bimmers! No offense, but that blows my friggin’ mind!
“I donno, if all the Civics you find are that worn out for that price, get a first generation Focus. Just as fun, almost as durable and a bit cheaper.
Hell, I’ve seen decent SVT Foci sell for $5000.”
I’ll second this. When we were in the same boat 2 years ago I was looking for a cheap communter. All the Hondas in my price range ($6k) were seriously high mile, or thrashed.
Foci were not only cheaper, but were more fun to drive. Found a 2001 ZX3 5-spd for $5700, and it’s been fun and reliable for over 2 years now, needing nothing but basic maintenance. The one repair it needed (self inflicted) was cheap thanks to cheap Ford parts.