Rob writes:
I am a regular reader, and now I need some advice. I have a 2000 Volvo S40 Turbo, with 106,000 miles. Recently when I’m on the highway and go to increase speed the car vibrates really bad. It will cruise with no problem, but the moment you try to pick up speed the vibration starts and continues till you let off the accelerator.
Another thing, I am living in Western KY [ED: sounds painful] and I have not even seen a Volvo dealer ship in this area. So if anybody knows of an independent mechanic I would appreciate it.
Sajeev replies:
That sounds like a bad CV joint. Which should be easy for any mechanic to spot on a lift. Remember, because of labor rates, sometimes it’s cheaper to replace the CV axle assembly versus an individual boot and joint.
As per usual, anything Volvo related gets Piston Slapped by TTAC’s Alex Dykes for the priceless advice of a model-specific enthusiast.
Alex Dykes replies:
Well, Rob, it looks like your S40 is just barely broken in with 106,000 miles. While Volvo was founded on the reputation for rock solid reliability and “run-foreverness,” modern cars are modern cars and stuff breaks from time to time. Although not a common failure with the S40, it sounds to me like one of your inner CV joints is going. You can get the car up on ramps and see if there is excessive play in the inner CV joint. The parts aren’t cheap, it’ll run you $350 to $380 for just the half shaft, but the good news is if you are mechanically inclined you can do the replacement yourself in a few hours.
I know you’re in Kentucky, but Darrell Waltrip Volvo in Franklin, TN, has excellent pricing on parts for the DIY inclined. Since you seem to be having troubles finding a Volvo service location near you, I would suggest getting a yearly subscription to a service like alldatadiy.com, they have online shop manuals for most cars which the serious backyard mechanic would prefer over something like a Haynes manual.
[Send your queries to mehta@ttac.com]
Tires. Check the tires.
Sure sounds like the description of a failed CV joint to me also. Quite possibly the CV joint’s protective boot failed or was torn some time in the past. Then the dirt and water gets in while the grease comes out. Soon enough, bad CV joint.
If this is the problem, by far the easiest repair is to replace the offending half-shaft assembly. eeuroparts.com can fix you up with a new one for about $100.
http://www.eeuroparts.com/Main/PartDetail.aspx?id=80-7816
Or, you can go to your local parts store and should be able to get a rebuilt unit for $75-$100.
Me being me, if it is a CV joint failure I would replace both half shafts.
A bit of trivia: The 2000 S40 was built in Holland at a joint venture plant with Mitsubishi and shared a platform with the Mitsubishi Carisma.
My roommate’s Volvo S60 Turbo with 120k miles just had a very similar problem, which he also thought was the CV joint. Turned out to be a bad coil, causing the engine to not fire on a cylinder. Good news was the fix was only about $250, including diagnosis, at the Volvo dealership. I’m not sure if it was throwing a Check Engine Light as his is always on due to the catalytic converter.
I assume you have US market 1.9 turbo. If it turns out to be a bad CV joint, go to http://www.rockauto.com Of course go into the parts catalogue, Volvo, 2000, 1.9L 1948cc L4 FI Turbo (25) [B4204T], Drivetrain, CV Half Shaft Assembly. $57 bucks. You’ll need to send them your old one for core credit. ** 5% more off that price if you use 20196991689995 discount code during checkout (Enter in box that says – How did you hear about us). Pretty easy job for any mechanic (hour labor or so). To my zip it was $7 to ship. All said and done, $61.14 total. I never pay extra for 1-2 day ship, and the parts usually arrive in 1-2 days. Rock Auto rocks!
Yes, the Swedes have “run-foreverness”. But rock solid reliability? That’s pushing it….
Good luck…
Do you get any vibrations at idle? Reason I ask is that these cars are notorious for broken engine mounts, particularly the hydraulic one near the timing belt.
I have owned 4 Volvos over many years and I must say that since the mid 80’s the marque has been coasting on an old reputation. I long for the days of the simple and reliable Volvo.
Rob,
To try to find a decent mechanic near you that may be able to help, try this link:
http://www.cartalk.com/content/mechx/find.html
I would go with aftermkt parts for any 9 yr old car. My only experience with CV joints is a RWD BMW. I rebuilt a joint early on. It wasnt rocket surgery, but it was a real messy job. Since then , I just find a good used one from my parts cars and swap it in.
I would just go with a rebuilt, If the job doesnt look too bad, I’d swap it out myself.
If one complains about a such a inexpensive repair on a car with over 100k, then one must not remember the constant replacement of tires, shocks, exhausts and brakes on Volvos of the 70s and 80s.
The new Volvos are more complicated, but are safer, more comfortable and perhaps even less expensive than previous Volvos.
Rob –
I have a 2000 S40 and just started getting this issue as well. It is my passenger side assembly. Also take a look at your hub bearing as well.
Here are a couple links for you:
FCP Groton has new assemblies right now for $110:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/category-exec/category_id/104/sub_top_menu_item/by_make-by_model-by_year/by_make/78/by_model/866/by_year/50
S40concepts.net is a great enthusiast forum. Come on by sometime!
Does the vibration accompany the car downshifting (for higher revs) or does it come on as speed increases? If it was a CV joint I would think there
would be some sort of vibration there all the time
or at least some noise when taking corners versus
being there only when increasing speed from cruise.
@stephenT,
I have no experience with FCP Groton, so this is heresay, but the members on Bimmerfest do not have good things to say regarding their rebuilts on the E46 forum. The members that have had CV problems on their AWD xi BMW’s do have good things to say about Pelicanparts rebuilt shafts which have only recently been introduced. Just my observations FWIW.
BMWFan-
Thanks. Just checked pelican and they don’t have axles for the S40 on the website but will call later.
Ahh, Western KY. My inlaws live in Eddyville and drive a XC70 with 100K+ – they have the same problem with finding good service so they bring it down to Nashville when they visit. If you decide not to DIY, Darryl Waltrip in Franklin is the place to go if you visit a dealer. Also there are a couple good indy shops in Nashville that won’t rake you over the coals. I would start with Import Specialty Service:
http://importspecialty.com/aboutus.php
John Horner: “The 2000 S40 was built in Holland at a joint venture plant with Mitsubishi”.
A bit more: This plant was/is called NedCar (Niederlands Car), and Volvo has since sold its share back to Mitsu. Since the SOP of the Ford-C1 platform in ~2004, the (non-China-market) S40/V50 has been built in the Volvo plant in Gent/Ghent BE.
The days for Volvo being the reliable car of the past have been over for quite some time. It might still having ratings as being a safe car, but mechanically it falls into the “high maintenance” category, along with BMW, Audi, and Mercedes.
@Stephent
No problem. IIRC the shafts for BMW’s were not on the site right away either, so a call is prob. a good idea. If you search the E46 forum at Bimmerfest.com for FCP groton you will see some of the problems the members had. If you DIY, make sure to wear gloves. as the grease used on CV joints is some of the nastiest stuff known to man. It pays to buy the right parts for this repair, otherwise vibrations will haunt you, and make you hate your car. You only want to do this repair once. Good luck!
I’m with onerareviper when it comes to Rockauto. Their prices are great, they allow you to chose from various brands, and they are responsive. The discount codes do expire though. For current discount codes, you can go to Taurusclub.com and search under “Rockauto discount code”. There is a running list of current discount codes to use!
The Rock Does Rock!!!
I have to add that it usually makes sense to change the entire half shaft as opposed to changing the boot or even the CV itself. A nagging concern is why an inner joint would be worn out at such low mileage…outer joint maybe…but the symptoms certainly seem to point to the inner joint.
Cut your losses, ROb, sell the 10 yr old POS. Volvos hav e become very unreiable the last few years.
Autosavant wrote:
Cut your losses, ROb, sell the 10 yr old POS. Volvos hav e become very unreiable the last few years.
Yes, because a CV joint on a 9-year old car is like totally unacceptable. Sheesh!
I had to replace both CV joints on my Mom’s car last year … and both rear wheel bearings. It was the same age as the poster’s S40 … but it’s a Honda Accord. Should we sell that POS too?
Oh the horror!
PS: I will third the Rock Auto advice. They saved me a ton of cash on a Tacoma Air Mass Meter recently.