Mark writes
Hi,
We will be buying a new car soon and that will leave us with an extra one. My experience selling a car myself makes me think we don’t really have the motivation to do it ourselves this time around.
The car is located in CT and is a White 2007 Hyundai Sonata SE with ~73k miles on it. The only option is the Sunroof. For whatever reason the side mirrors seem to attract having the outer housing broken, they sre still functional but the housing rattles.. I’ve replaced one, unpainted grey , and will be replacing the other shortly. There are no other issues with the car as I can tell. The emissions test is due next month, so I’ll have to have that done.
Any tips?
Are you paid more than $300 an hour? If not it would make a lot of sense to sell the Sonata yourself. The difference between trade-in and retail for your Sonata comes to $7,325 vs. $10,850 according to the Manheim Market Report. That comes to $3525 which doesn’t include all those extra hours you must work for Uncle Sam and his state ‘sales tax’ sibling. Your real savings if the Sonata is retailed is well into the $4000+ range. Lucky for you, the selling process is pretty simple.
There are three simple steps to getting that premium return:
1) Bring the vehicle to ‘Day One’.2) Collect your service records3) Advertise and ‘be nice’.
First off get all the substandard crap off your car. Would you buy a car with rattles right near where you sit? Go here, here or ask this guy and find yourself the real McCoy. They’re cheap.
Second, get the vehicle washed and detailed by a reputable place. You want to eliminate all vestiges of your existence on this vehicle. Why? Because clean cars sell for more money. Folks want a near-new car. Not Uncle Joey’s smelly ride. Spend $100 to $200 on a stem to stern cleansing of your ride.
Step Two: Get Records
The second step in this process is likely the easiest one of all. Get records. The place where you get your oil changed? They have a record of your car. Same with the place where you got your tires. Dealers and independents are always a big plus. But if you want to get the premium return, fill in the holes by having the other places fax you those records most folks don’t bother to keep. Nothing eliminates a consumer’s uncertainty like a good track record of routine maintenance.
Step Three: Advertise
Finally when you sell… ignore the BIG CAP DEALER ADS and acr, on, ymed, li, st, ings. Take about 12 good pictures and offer a quick synopsis of your vehicle. Keep it to no more than 3 sentences.
“We have diligently maintained this vehicle since Day One. It has been garage kept, dealer maintained, and comes with a clean Carfax history. $10,800 Phone # XXX – XXX -XXXX”
If you don’t like giving your number then sign up for ‘Google Voice’ and then have that number forwarded to your cell phone. You can also screen wankers of varying sorts by having it record the messages from the prospective customers and then calling them back. I’ve eliminated virtually all the nutters by doing this when I’m on vacation.
Autotrader can be a great source. Craigslist offers plenty of exposure for a day or so. Other places to consider are local community web sites (your county/city.com), the workplace, university newspapers and bulletin boards, supermarkets, and in some markets the daily newspaper. Despite the technology of the modern day, I have found that local and personal connections tend to be particularly strong. Don’t forget them.
Finally when it comes time to sell… what should you do? Keep the kiddies away. When an appointment is made you want your buyer to have some quiet time with the vehicle. Everyone has their risk tolerances. So at the very least either write down their license information or be willing to go for the ride.
When it comes to finalize the deal, each state offers their own Bill of Sale form. In practice you can take their linked form and do it yourself. But two stipulations I would always put down are ‘this vehicle is sold AS/IS with no warranty expressed or implied.’ and ‘Buyer agrees to obtain insurance for the vehicle before it leaves the lot’. You want to avoid any potential headaches in the future and expressing the transfer of your vehicle in writing is an absolute must.
Have you been paid yet? Oh yeah. That part. The only time you should ever accept a cashier’s check is if you go directly to the bank that issued it.. and get cash. Make sure you do this before giving the keys and title away. Finally if your sales price is over $10k in cash, your bank may file a Form 8300. This is not a big deal. Auto auctions, car dealerships and jewelers collectively file thousands of these forms weekly as do their banks. The IRS is far more concerned about professional money launderers than Joe Blow from Idaho.
Now that you have that nice five figured sum in your bank account, enjoy it. You’ve earned it. Don’t forget to tip the author.
Or you could just be like my dad, wait till you have a replacement vehicle picked out and paid for, and then sell your Oldsmobile to your kid for $1.
Actually my father had tried the “For Sale by Owner” thing for a few of his vehicles and finally my mother told him, “No.” She didn’t like the hassle.
About 5 years ago I sold a 91 LeSabre for $100 to a friend of mine’s cousin because I wanted rid of it. If I ever do a private party sale again I will be driving to the DMV with the buyer to transfer the title since I got the registration renewal notice a year later.
I generally do the trade-it routine because I’m just not interested in trying to deal with all that. When I traded my GP I actually got $1000 above excellent trade-in value.
I may be wrong about this, but a fake cashier’s check from the bank you do business with could sink you. Don’t just get cash and then deposit it at your bank, because the bank can confiscate any and all other funds in your account to try to recoup their loss (if it does turn out to be a forgery). Of course this shouldn’t be happening if it’s a check originated in their system! But stranger things have happened.
Let’s be clear: the law is that when you endorse a check (which you have to do to deposit it to your account, or to cash it) no matter what bank it’s drawn upon (including your own bank) you are warranting that it is a good check, that the signatures are genuine, etc. So, if the check turns out to be bad for any reason, your bank will charge back the amount of the deposit against you. The only thing the cashier’s check does for you is establish that there are funds to cover the check (assuming the whole thing isn’t a forgery.)
I believe the only exception to this rule is a “certified” check, where the bank certifies that there are sufficient funds to pay the check and may certify the genuineness of the signature.
I would say that one of the biggest risks of selling your own car is “payment risk,” i.e. the risk that you don’t get paid, even though you think otherwise.
I think you are wrong about this. When the bank cashes a cashiers check it wrote on its own account, they would check to see that they actually issued the check and everything is kosher. As long as you do this before they ride off with the vehicle I don’t see how you could get screwed.
Fortunately, the last several cars I’ve sold were to friends, neighbors and co-workers and no one has threatened me with death, yet. Good advice, though.
Some of that retail/wholesale differential is reduced, in my state, by the trade-in value. This amount is not subject to sales tax. Tends to lead to generous, but not ridiculous, trade-in allowances and tighter discounts from MSRP. If its a FSBO, you don’t get this. See, unlike the dealers’ organization, you didn’t buy off the right legislators. Probably didn’t buy off any of them, you cheapskate.
The tax thing, along with the general hassle (bad checks, random stupid phone calls, late appointments) means I normally just trade in at the dealership / lot where I’m purchasing my next vechicle. If a dealer lowballs me I just do the CarMax thing, they will apparise your car and give you guaranteed price good for (I think) 3 days. I take that offer with me to the dealership and whip it out telling them to match it or I’ll sell the car to CarMax for more $$$. This has worked twice in the past for me. Sure I don’t get the maximum for my ride but it simplifies the deal and stops haggling for both parties.
I’ve bought and sold a lot of cars over the years (I’m a car guy, not a dealer). I include the following sentence on the bill of sale:
“Any representations or statements that may have been made regarding the automobile have no bearing on the sale unless specifically included in writing in this Agreement.”
If your ad said “no rust” and the owner found a spec of rust, you could be in trouble (in some states). I remember reading an article in a recent car mag where the seller of a classic car had to refund the buyer’s money because of this.
Twotone
That’s a good addition to the bill of sale. I also have a couple additions:
1) Make a space after the purchasers name for their driver’s license number and expiration date. Fill that info from their license before letting them sign.
2) I’ve never sold a car to a person that didn’t bring someone else along – a friend or father or brother or whatever. Make them sign as a witness to the transaction (in a spot marked “witness”).
If they are scamming you, that’s probably two additional felonies. And in the case of #2, you now have a conspiracy with two felonious perpetrators. Basically, my goal is to get so many felonies out of it that the police are truly interested in helping out. Busting up a car theft ring can help the prosecutor get elected Sheriff. Let his greed work for you.
Also, I always make a photocopy of the signed bill of sale and give the purchaser a copy on the spot. Lastly, I have never had a problem selling a car privately. This is all probably a bit of extra work for nothing.
This is a somewhat related question, so bear with me.
I’ve got a 97 SAAB. 135K miles, dealer maintained, one owner, garaged for its entire life. All records.
The “book” on the car is 2000 or so. I took off collision insurance a few years ago in the assumption that a fender bender with airbags would total the car ($1000 damage for two airbags).
Now, the problem I have is cars of that “vintage” are now in a valley. There simply isn’t much of market for lower mileage, well maintained saabs. I’ve seen a few go for 5000 or even 7000. Insane, but a reflection of a very thin market.
So, if I were to get collision insurance, how can I document this? Are dealer records, good paint, no dings all part of a valuation?
Yes. Just like any form of personal property, using recent pictures and records can verify the condition of the vehicle.
From there IF the vehicle gets totaled, you can use NADA, Edmunds, and KBB (Clean Retail) and average out these three books as the true market value of the vehicle.
KBB used to be awful when it came to older used cars. They are getting much better though.
You forgot to expound on the “Be Nice” part.
It’s amazing to me that people will put an ad in Craigslist with a phone number and then act like you’ve violated their privacy when you actually call the number. I’ve had it happen three times in the last week. Grunting one-word answers into the phone is not a way to get me excited about buying something from you.
I went to look at a car a couple of weeks ago, and the guy never even ran a vacuum over the carpets. The trunk (a voluminous one in a Crown Vic, mind you) was crammed full of his dirty laundry, toolbox, etc. I had $500 less than his asking price in my pocket and ended up walking away instead. This ain’t a yard sale, bud.
I’ve sold two cars in the last month within a hundred dollars of my asking price following exactly the steps you outlined. Fixing what’s wrong, spending an hour outside washing, polishing and vacuuming, putting a service history together, taking good pictures and not being a douche when the seller gets in touch with me.
A couple of tips of my own:
I typically weed out the tweakers and nutbags via email before I give anybody my phone number.
I generally try to meet people either at my office or at some mutually agreeable location. I’m not that comfortable having people I don’t know scoping out my stuff at home.
I like to be as honest as I can about the good and the bad, so I list those things in separate paragraphs. I’ve shown up to look at cars and found out only then that they’d had the front clip replaced, or that they had a bad transmission. It really pisses me off. I don’t want to waste anybody’s time.
+1
I know that it would be quite easy to get my address anyway, especially once they have my phone number, but I still perfer to meet the prospective customer someplac nearby like a store parking lot. At least the typical unmotivated tweeker crook won’t have the smarts or drive to figure out where I live.
I have had no luck with local newspapers or local cars for sale type papers that you find in teh stand near the front of the convenience store. While some local governments (including mine) have started outlawing For Sale signs on cars, I have found that a car parked in a vacant lot or in a public area along a busy street get’s the most responses.
I’ve always performed the cleaning of the car myself, and I’ve found that McGuiars (sp?) makes some great products for getting out any road grime that may have accumulated over the years. After a few hours cleaning, polishing, and waxing, you wouldn’t know that the car was 10 years old. Maybe I’m anal about it and maybe it doesn’t really make a difference, but if you do the cleaning yourself, get absolutely everywhere. The door sill and posts may only be visible when the car door is open, but it only takes a few extra minutes to clean them and to my eye makes a world of difference.
Exactly, Lumbergh21. If you can find it, Meguiar’s professional line offers a heavy duty vinyl cleaner that’s incredible. You can usually find it when there’s a Meguiar’s truck at a car show, but they don’t normally sell it in auto parts stores.
The thing I’m looking for most is a long chain of ownership, a stack of receipts, and evidence that the car was treated respectfully its whole life.
The biggest turnoff for me is opening the door to a big whiff of that “abused car smell” that cars take on after decades of misuse.
It’s a nauseating cocktail of a generations worth of spilled coffee, muddy boots, Fritos under the seat and wet dog. One big blast of that in the face and I get right back in the car and head for home.
@Vespafitz: It’s a nauseating cocktail of a generations worth of spilled coffee, muddy boots, Fritos under the seat and wet dog.
You forgot the most common and worst one: cigarette smoke.
@Vespa
What have you found is the easiest way to take care of the carpets? Full rubber mats during winter, factory (if equipped) mats during summer? This is responding to the muddy boots issue. I’ve always had trouble keeping the floors clean and don’t know what to buy.
@Japanese Buick
“You forgot the most common and worst one: cigarette smoke.”
This goes hand in hand with greasy windows as a result of smoking often with the windows shut. Makes me gag.
@Vespa
“The biggest turnoff for me is opening the door to a big whiff of that “abused car smell” that cars take on after decades of misuse.”
A couple things I look for, that go along with the above statement, are shredded floor mats,(that have very obvious heel marks) and excessively worn pedals. I remember reading a couple years ago to check the pedals and it made a lot of sense. Accelerator and brake pedals aren’t going to be worn much by gentle acceleration and braking, but they will be well worn by somebody who completely beats the crap out of the car and hastily applies one of the other repeatedly.
@tankinbeans:
For the last 7 years, I lived up in Vermont about a mile in on a dirt road. It was nearly impossible to keep a car clean, but I managed pretty well. I had a 1995 Saab 900. I tried the rubber mats, and they did work pretty well, but I never thought they looked very good.
I ended up buying a set of genuine Saab winter mats, and they were great. They were a really tight loop pile, so you could shake most of the sand out of them. I’d also just throw them in the washing machine.
I never understood trying to sell a car with trashed floormats. For $10 you can buy a set of mats at any auto parts store in the country. For a hundred, you can buy original equipment. You’re right, it shows a decided lack of care for the car.
The biggest thing was to own a shop vac with car attachments. Mine gets a real workout. I have two small kids, so my house is perpetually trashed, and I try to keep my car an oasis of cleanliness. My wife thinks I’m nuts. Her car looks like a frat house.
It’s been a while since I’ve sold a car, but the biggest hassle I recall is people who make an appointment to see it and don’t show up. Any advice for weeding that PITA out?
Also another rule I learned to make is never negotiate over the phone before the guy sees your car. I had lots of people call me on a car listed at, say, $6000 and say “price seems kind of high but I could do $5000.” Don’t bother. Once they get there in person, they’ll want to keep grinding the price down further, with $5000 as the starting point instead of $6000.
The disadvantage of taking voicemail messages and calling back is often someone will call a dozen or so ads at a time, so when you call them back they don’t remember which ad you were associated with and will ask you to repeat everything. Just understand that will happen, I doubt there is any way around it.
Lastly I know you want to keep your home phone private but one advantage of your home phone is you get names with the caller id. It surprises me how many dealers call from their office and the caller id name is something like ‘DOUCHEBAG AUTO.” You’d never know based on cell phone caller id, which only includes numbers. So the google voice idea is a good one, but forward it to your home phone. Or get a “ringmaster” number for your home phone, which is a second telephone number with a distrinctive ring. Costs like $4/month, and you cancel it once the car is sold.
I weed out no-shows by having them give me their phone number. I’ll say something like “Ok, I’ll meet you at ten at the Fuzzy Grape. Give me a call if you’re not going to make it. I’ll call you if I can’t find you.”
I have bought and sold a few cars on Craigslist over the last few years. Never more than a week to sell. I pretty much follow Steve’s plan and some of the others here.
Print a copy of the carfax. Make a pdf version to e-mail to prospective buyers.
Don’t lie about the car in any way.
Never sell a car with a list of problems. Most people want to buy the car and drive it immediately, they don’t to have to spend the next 2 weeks getting new tires and a oil change or a new battery.
When I buy a car with issues always drop my bid by at least twice the amount it would cost to fix.
Plug in an OBDII scanner into the port and check for codes. I have walked away from several sales because the check engine light bulb had been removed (or had burnt out from being on for ever).
If any of these are true you should mention it:
Never been smoked in.
No pets.
Original owner.
Adult owned. (important for cars like to mess with).
No modifications (see above). Nice set of rims is OK, maybe a better stereo but not OTT.
Local car in a state where rust is not a concern.
Full service history. I keep a log of all maintenance in the glove-box.
Here’s some friendly advice from a (fairly) frequent buyer
1) Answer the damn phone. When you put an ad in the paper or on C’List, don’t be shocked (shocked!) when an interested buyer calls. You would be amazed how many times I have answered an ad upon its placement only to be told that “Oh , that’s dad’s car” ” He’s out of towm and will be back on Monday” This is every bit as annoying as early/late/time wasting buyers calls.
2) Write the ad with ALL the important stuff included. Yes, the transmission type is important. 4 or 6 cylinder ? It does make a difference.If you are going to the trouble to run an ad at all,do it right.
3) Craigslist allows digital photos for free. If you are too stupid to list the car with a picture or two,don’t be surprised when your phone doesn’t ring. In fact , I automatically assume that NO picture means that there is something very bad about the car that you don’t want me to see. I don’t even bother with those ads.
4) If you list the vehicle as a “parts car” because you have no paperwork at all, reputable buyers will stay away.
5) Please , dear God please,come up with a better,more believable story about why the odometer is the only part of the car that has ever needed service/replacement. We are not fooled.
6) This really should be 1(a). ANSWER YOUR EMAILS ! Some people just feel more comfortable communicating that way. I know that there are Nigerian scammers out there,but just hit “delete” on those and move on. The aggravation is part of the whole DIY car selling process.
I know that I have missed some. Please add more if you spot any that I have missed.
5) Please , dear God please,come up with a better,more believable story about why the odometer is the only part of the car that has ever needed service/replacement. We are not fooled.
I once looked at a bike for sale that had “6000” miles on it, heavy wear on the handgrips, footpegs, and shifter rubber… and a shiny-new speedometer cable. I was tempted to ask straight-faced how long he’d ridden it without a working speedo, just to see if he’d reflexively answer with the truth. But I didn’t think I could keep a straight face. And I’d already decided to pass anyway.
Make sure your voicemail message sounds like somebody that I’d want to buy a car from. If you don’t answer your phone your outgoing message becomes my first impression; it’s litterally zero work to make it sound professional, intelligent, and responsible.
Who would you pick to pursue a multi-thousand dollar transaction with:
“Hello, you’re reached John Smith’s phone, please leave a message and I’ll return your call as soon as possible”
-or-
“This is Johnny, talk at the beep and I’ll hit you up.”
If I call somebody’s phone and get a “ringback” tone or anything similar I immediately hang up and keep looking, as I’ve found through experience that people with ringback tones are invariably people that I do not want to buy a vehicle from.
Having just spent the better part of two months shopping for just the right car on craigslist, let me mention a few of things…
1) Explicitly state which engine, and what type of transmission. It’s truly mind-boggling how many people fail to mention whether the car they’re selling is manual or automatic. And yes, you have to be explicit even if there is only one version. Your buyer is almost certainly not an expert on the configuration and available options of every car on the market.
2) Make, model, mileage, equipment. And for the love of god, unless you live on a freeway onramp, skip the “all highway miles” crap. Just give a number. You can explain how it got that way during the inspection/test drive.
3) Price in normal numbers ending in zero. Scammers use weird pricing. Dealers think numbers ending in 99 make it look cheaper. Neither will endear you to your audience. If you want $4000, say $4000. Not 3990. Or 4050.
4) No false keywords. If I’m shopping for a VW, and your BMW pops up in my search, you just lost any chance of selling me anything. Even if I’m also considering BMWs.
5) Only one ad at a time. If I run a search, and 5 copies of your ad pop up, you’ve just lost… I’ve got enough legitimate ads to sort through. I’m not wasting my time on you.
5) Only one ad at a time. If I run a search, and 5 copies of your ad pop up, you’ve just lost… I’ve got enough legitimate ads to sort through. I’m not wasting my time on you.
These can be handy, however, if the ads that pop up are just leftovers from weeks/months ago that they guy is too dumb to take down.
As a buyer, I rather like to know that the seller has had the car on the market for an extended period of time – complete with a steady drop in asking price as he gets more and more desperate. I’ll happily deal with another 3-4 ads for the same car if it gives me more intelligence come bargaining time.
As a buyer, I rather like to know that the seller has had the car on the market for an extended period of time
I was checking for new ads at least three times per day. Genuine prospects went away quickly. If I wasn’t interested today, I’m not any more interested tomorrow. Or the next day, or the next…
Yep, pictures are important on Craigslist. What’s amazing is that people will post pictures taken at night without lights, duplicate or triplicate pictures, pictures taken into the sun so the car is just a black blob, or pictures that seem to be hiding something (why show only half the side? etc.) What dummies. Craigslist automatically allows four images — use all four with well-lit 3/4 views of the outside, a picture of the interior, and if appropriate use one space for a picture of any special feature (e.g., an odometer that shows unusually low mileage; engine mods).
My favorite is online ads with no interior pics. Really, I’m just supposed to believe your word that the interior is “mint” in that 1972 Chevy pickup and not ripped to heck like every other 40 year old pickup truck on the planet.
Some of the Craigslist pics are amusing. No attempt to “pose” the vehicle. Seats full of junk and how about that flat tire, is that extra?
Maybe take it out of the garage and remove the crap you have piled on top of it.
And if you don’t know how to rotate and crop pics, take em the correct way up the first time.
And when you say your price is firm at $4000 does that mean you really won’t take $3999 after you have the ad running for week?
Price in normal numbers ending in zero. Scammers use weird pricing. Dealers think numbers ending in 99 make it look cheaper. Neither will endear you to your audience. If you want $4000, say $4000. Not 3990. Or 4050.
It’s about time someone got to this particular point. I might also add that your add MUST include an asking price. Many don’t, leading potential buyers to assume the worst, ie: that you’re holding out for some sky-high price, but want to get the buyers engaged in your sales pitch first so that you can hopefully justify why your 1995 Neon is somehow worth $10,000. (gold-plated hubcaps?)
Us car buyers are busy people. We don’t have time to have our chains jerked by such underhanded crap. We scan the adds first by model desired and then by asking price. When we see one in our price range we read the rest of the ad. If we like what we’re reading we’ll call you. If we like what you tell us over the phone we’ll schedule an appointment with you. And if we find the car is as good as you’ve led us to believe, at a mutually agreeable price we’ll buy it.
But if your add has no asking price we vigorously ignore it AND you.
Finally, to the dealers on here:
“Only $200 a month” (or worse, “only $50 a week”) is NOT a price. Cut the smoke-and-mirrors crap and just advertise the full asking price in big, bold print. Include everything in that price except applicable taxes, no back-end sleaze. If you then want to add (in smaller print) “Only $200 a month”, no problem— as long as you also add in the same size print the number of months the loan is for. Customers hate the auto maul. If you distance yourself from the vast majority of your competitors who use subterfuge, weasel words and omissions in their advertising the public will eventually clue in and beat a path to your front door. Promise.
Using Photobucket or Flickr for your Craigslist ads is a big plus. Their programs keep the photos nicely sized (not huge or postage stamp-ish), and you can put more than the four that you are allowed while using the Craigslist system.
Also, as Steve65 said, keywords will make everyone want to kill you.
Sell with a full tank of gas. An empty tank insinuates that you are a tightwad and therefore you were likely stingy with maintenance. As an added bonus for OBDII cars, you can’t trigger a vapor-test fault as the test doesn’t run with a full tank. Savvy buyers show up with a scan tool. Any indication that the computer was reset means you are hiding something. If you are not a smoker, advertise as such. Don’t try to hide it as you can’t get smoke smells out without great effort and months of time. Even then, a wet, humid day will still bring the stench out…
Assuming you took good care of your car, put the word out to your family, friends, coworkers and acquaintances that you have a good clean car to sell. These kinds of transactions can be much less hassle than the whole selling to strangers thing is.
Thanks for the great info guys! After reading your suggestions I came up with an ad for Craigslist and will have a link to a photo album. What do you guys think about my ad?
2006 Dodge Ram SLT MegaCab. 66,000 miles. Original owner. Never wrecked and has a clean CarFax. Heavy duty 2500/3500 frame, 4 wheel ABS disc brakes and rear axles. Towing package with hitch/step rear bumper and digital trailer brake controller included. Cold front and rear A/C, power windows, power door locks, power sliding rear window, tilt steering wheel, cruise control and dark legal window tint by professionals.
345 horsepower/375 torque Hemi 5.7 liter V8 with 5 speed automatic transmission. Oil changed every 3,000 miles with Castrol Syntec along with air filter. 17″ polished 8 lug aluminum wheels and fairly new Goodyear Fortera tires w/Dupont Kevlar. The tires have lifetime free rotations at Discount Tire.
Immaculate Inferno Red Metallic clearcoat paint with some door dings. Parked underground in covered parking at work and covered at the house. Comes with Ram MegaCab truckcover. Slate grey interior with uplevel bucket seats/uplevel cloth and power driver’s seat ($900 extra when new). Has dual level front center console and upgraded Infinity sound system with 6 disc indash CD changer. Mopar bedcover, rear mudflaps and OEM floormats.
Great truck for a family man! The MegaCab has as much rear legroom as a Lincoln TownCar limousine. Plenty of room for carseats or booster seats and the mother-in-law’s wide ass! Put your bicycle in the truck bed and when needed for security it can be rolled onto and fit on the floor in front of the rear seat no problem! Rear seats can fold 70/30 or 100% down with a wide closing storage bin behind them. Six cupholders! $14,500 negotiable. Buy privately owned with no sales tax and save $800 over buying from a dealer!
“Immaculate” means perfect. If it has door dings, it’s not perfect.
This: Rear seats can fold 70/30 or 100% down with a wide closing storage bin behind them. Six cupholders
is the only part of that last paragraph that belongs in a classified ad. (And note the deletion of excess! enthusiasm!)
If you have a service history folder, mention it. If not, how to do propose to verify your oil change claim? Same rule applies to private sales as dealer sales: if it’s not in writing, it doesn’t count.
Don’t know about your state, but where I live sales tax applies to private vehicle sales as well as dealer ones. It’s just collected at the counter when you transfer the title, rather than by the seller.
In Ohio the state takes their tax when the title is transferred. Tough to get out of unless everyone lies about the sale price.
Thanks Steve! Sounds good! Will make the changes!