My brother-in-law was all of 21 years old when he bought his first house. Not just a regular dwelling… but one with two and a half acres and a lake. A two year work/study with John Deere along with four years of living at home yielded one heck of a lot of savings.
As graduation neared he asked me to find a vehicle that would be as good for his upcoming commutes as it would be for all of his ‘stuff’. I should mention that like me, my BIL Tommy buys everything on the cheap and fixes it up. Old motorycles, jet ski’s, tractors, boats, 20+ year old Porsches… I have yet to find a machine that he couldn’t bring back to life.
So I bought him a common hauler, that he turned into a one-of-a-kind.
Not for the big stuff mind you but more than enough for the smaller ‘toys’. Despite their lightweight provincial duties, the overwhelming majority of these non-hybrid models have come with a thirsty 3.0 Liter Duratec V6. An engine that would remain with the Escape for over a decade. Although Ford saw fit to bump the horsepower rating of this relic from 200 to 240 in 2009, the Duratec still ‘drank’ gas as badly as most V6 engines did circa 1996.
Even in it’s 2001 launch, the 19 city / 25 hwy ratings were no better than most minivans from that era. But hey! They looked butch.
As a renter this vehicle would be a fine value. Durable, fashionable, and cheap to fix. But the Duratec 4-speed combo was not what I bought.
Lease: I got him the 5-speed, 4-cylinder model combination. Why? Well, because he wanted a five speed and his budget was no more than $7000. It was bought in the thick of the Katrina aftermath for $5900. This was the first time in decades when people had to wait in line for gas and their was a true sense of fear amongst the Atlanta citizenry. A fear that took a long time to dissipate.
Gas stations were gouging the local populace. I remember many were jacking the gas prices right when folks were headed back from work. Long lines ensued and by the weekend Atlanta would be pumped to near depletion. The fear machine that is local news media beat the drum of fear endlessly for hours on end.
Sell: It turned out to be a good bullet to bite. One sensor. A few other minor things, and the retail purchase ended up being a bit less than $7000. Then he drove it all over the place for over six years.Up to Iowa for multiple John Deere meetings and training seminars. Through all states far and wide for motorcycle rides and lakefront get togethers.
Keep: A few other modifications were done in the first six months. Tommy has a penchant for finding cheap vehicles on Craigslist. Old Honda motorcycles molderizing in a granny’s garage. Boats that haven’t been used since the owners moved inland.
In the Escape’s case, Tommy was able to find a full leather interior for the Escape. Cost pre-tears and wears? $150. So now Tommy enjoys the best of both ‘Escapist’ worlds. A cheap ride that can haul most of his toys… and a comfortable distance runner that has constantly returned 27 mpg in the midwestern flatlands. For SUV’s at the turn of the early 2000’s, these were good numbers.
“Despite their lightweight provincial duties, nearly all of these non-hybrid models have come with a 3.0 Liter Duratec V6 and 4-speed automatic. A powertrain that would remain unchanged and unimproved for nearly a decade.”
Not true…
The ’01–’08 V6s were rated at 200 HP, the ’09–’11 were rated at 240 HP, and the transmission went from a 4-speed auto to a 6-speed auto in ’09. Also in ’09 a rear sway bar was added.
In ’05 the Escape came with the new CAN(Controller Area Network) engine control system, a floor-mounted shift, and if like the Mazda Tribute, 4-wheel disc brakes (V6 models only).
In ’05 the AWD system was electronic as opposed to the earlier mechanical system.
In ’05 the 4-cylinder went from the 2.0L timing belt engine to the 2.3 timing chain engine as used in the Mazda3 and Mazda6 cars, as well as the Ford Fusion and its variants.
So, these vehicles WERE improved through the years.”
Points taken… I was focusing on the Duratec engine. I’ll modify that portion of the write-up and keep this as comment one for the reader’s reference.
I’ve had mine for 7 1/2 years and it still looks and drives decently for 145K miles. Only things i’ve had to replace were a coil pack and the alternator and both of those were in the last year or so. I have the v6 and get 24-25 mpg on long road trips. I would definately buy another one.
Oh how I long for the days of the early 00s, when I was a tycoon making millions trading in flat gray plastic body cladding.
I got one of these as a rental for a drive from Chicago to Boston (and back) in 2002. I rather liked it, and was glad I had it when I ran afoul some lake effect snow across upstate NY.
My buddy just got a 05 with 125K on it for 4800 cash. The in dash 6 CD changer radio is a POS and most jam up and entrap the CDs. We swapped an aftermarket radio in, something that can easily be done with the Escape but not most cars. He had an oil leak from the front valve cover, tightening the bolts back up solved that. Fuel usage is high, this is a 4WD vehicle not a FWD econo-box so expecting the kind of mileage you get in a Focus is unreasonable. He gets around 16 around Philly traffic. The car has larger tires, a rear differential , and a driveshaft and is not aerodynamic like a sports car. The vehicle is very roomy inside yet the short wheelbase makes it easy to park in town. He drive an 03 and swears the 05 has more acceleration.
There are excellent on line forums for these cars, quite a following they have. That alone makes owning one easier since you have a decent support network for them. I think this is one vehicle Ford got right.
+1 regarding the online forums for the Escape/Mariner/Tribute.
“Fuel usage is high, this is a 4WD vehicle not a FWD econo-box so expecting the kind of mileage you get in a Focus is unreasonable.”
In case that you forgot, some new small-ute like Mazda CX-3, with a 2.0L engine of 155 hp, claims to get 33 mpg (manual/FWD), 30 mpg (auto/AWD) on the highway.
Well I have to say that this certainly makes me feel better, as I am seriously considering a new ’12 Escape. Every one I have talked to that has one seems to like them. The only thing that strikes me as odd is when you step on the gas it takes a second after you step on it before it actually moves.
Other than that I think it will do the job for me.
At least I hope it will. It will be my first brand-new car since 1997.
my v6 05 has no hesitation at all
this is OK but I want the new Toyota 86.
Ford interior of that era is always a turn off for me. Looks so cheap! Look at that shifter for the 5-speed. If it was me, it would be the first I replace.
The shifter is a truck-like design – with longish metal rods underneath the vehicle to connect it to the transaxle.
The design not as elegant as a modern cable system – but very sure footed even after 140K, albeit with a long throw in 5th gear.
The shifter looks really low (at least in this picture). Is it comfortable?
The two liter was wretched, but the 2.3 and 2.5 are good motors. Unfortunately, in order to ensure good economy, they gave them that cruddy electric throttle that asks you politely if you really do want to accelerate before setting off.
The V6 in a FWD variant is a gas, until you get past that low-end lump of torque and find nothing waiting for you on the other side of the hill. It took them way too long to update that engine to the same specs as in the Mazda6 which had been phased out by the time they did.
Actually, fuel economy wasnt the main reason for the electronic throttle. ’09 2.3 and V6 models still had cables, at least the Tributes did.
Drive by wire allows for the elimination of separate cruise control and idle air control devices and their wiring, cable and linkage wear, a throttle position sensor, and better emission control on decel.
Most recent cars now have drive by wire, just a normal progression of technology.
A/C systems today are no different–you push the a/c button and the engine control unit sees the request, and if all conditions are met, the engine control unit grounds a relay to operate the compressor.
Very few systems on todays cars arent electronically controlled.
Way of the world.
If I recall, the first Escape 2.3 I drove had it. I haven’t driven the Tribute equivalent, so I can’t comment.
Electronic throttle allows you to eliminate the idle air control valve and separate cruise control… but one of the main reasons they’re so popular is that they help with emissions and economy by modulating throttle opening and closing. Suddenly stepping off the gas increases emissions as the throttle slams shut, an electronic throttle will often hang open a little bit to smooth it out.
RENt, LEASE, SELL, KEEP, [CRUSH INTO CUBE]
Rather timely piece, for me. I just snagged an ’02 Escape, V6, 4×4 to supplement my ’11 Mustang for the upcoming winter, which is predicted to be harsher than normal around here. Very clean, strong engine and trannie and 97,800 miles for an even $6000.
I’ve owned Escapes in the past and they all provided good if unexciting service and proved very adept as plowing through snowy roads. (Ask me about driving to the press previews for the Detroit auto show three years ago.)
I just can’t get past all the automatic transmission failures I’ve seen on Escapes (and Tributes, and Mariners, and Fusions, Milans, Taurus Xs – hell, most Fords) since I started working in rental cars in 2006. This includes V6, 4cyl, AWD, FWD, the older body style, the current one, and all the updates. I realize they were rental cars and didn’t get full-on maintenance, but we’re talking sub-20,000 miles on 99% of them, and a shocking number under 5,000 miles. Also, I used to hang around a Monro shop (had a buddy who worked there for a couple of years), and they used to turn away Escape V6s with (I believe) bad alternators – a common problem – because of the amount of work involved in replacing them. The placement (behind and on the bottom of the engine on the passenger side – basically behind the fender liner on the right front wheel) meant it was hard to get to, and far too much stuff had to be removed to replace it. A 4cyl 5-speed FWD would probably be the least trouble-prone Escape to have, by virtue of “least things that could break,” but the resale is high enough on these that I’d probably go for a less flaky vehicle just to be safe. Also, at that point: Focus 5-door or wagon!
My friend’s parents had a 2005 Escape that received meticulous care (always garaged, clean towels placed on the floorboards, etc) and the automatic transmission crapped out at 35K miles. The were so discusted due to that premature failure that they elected not to fix the vehicle, and are now driving a CR-V instead! I was really surprised when I heard this. Like so many other people, they were hard-core buy-american-car people for decades, but now are driving the CR-V and a Corolla.
On the V6 Ford engineers placed the alternator under the rear cylinder bank, painfully close to the catalytic converter.
The steering rack and linkage blocks access to the cooked alternator. – So the intermediate axle needs to be pulled to gain access – $600 – Removal of the fender liner is the least of your worries at that point.
Ford’s front wheel drive automatic trans-axle failure rate on the Escape and Tribute is legendary – especially with the V6.
The 5 speed manual shift used with the base 4 cylinder and the CVT used on the Hybrid Escape are pretty much bullet proof.
I have an 05 V6 with 144k and no trans issues. It has been flushed 2 times though.
My alternator went out at 138K and while the mechanic mentioned having to unbolt the lower strut mount, he didn’t mention the axle having to be removed like “OldandSlow” mentioned. and he didn’t charge $600, he charged $341
My family has two c. 2001 Escapes. They now have a bit over 100k mi on them, and they’ve done their job well, and they get good mpg for the type of vehicle (and the bad driving habits of my family), but I’m not too impressed with them. The interiors are falling apart, and it seems the entire car rattles. They’ve also had numerous (minor) mechanical issues.
Yep, Escapes with the Duratec outnumber those with a Zetec by about 25 to 1. The only way to obtain an Escape with a manual transmission during those years was with a 2.0 Zetec.
The automatic trans-axle that was coupled to the 3.0 Duratec does give out after a while.
Even though the 2.0 Zetec has 16 valves – it’s a mid 1990’ies engine. The Zetec is a bit noisy on acceleration. I have one in my Tribute that has 140K on the odometer. I trust its cast iron block more than I would a high mileage all-aluminum 2.3L MZR – which replaced the Zetec in 2005.
I’m happy to see that your brother in law made it 212K. Hopefully, my Mazda Tribute will persevere another 60K.
We looked very closely at these before buying my wife her 2002 CR-V. Why the Honda over the Ford? Several reasons: (1) The V6 engine was a gas hog. (2) The 4 cyl. auto was slower than my 1996 Ranger 4 cyl. 5 speed with the A/C on. (3) I heard of “issues” with the first-year Escapes and I didn’t want any of that. (4) I really didn’t want to buy anything, and (5) Wifey wanted one anyway, especially because she was influenced by two guys in her office who bought then and liked them, and I said that our 1999 Stratus was only going to be a ‘3-year’ car and the three years was almost up!
My brother-in-law had an Escape for several years and really liked it. I liked it, too, and it was much more comfy than our CR-V.
A good vehicle all-around, if you ask me.
EDIT: The two guys in my wife’s office got rid of their CR-Vs after they both had serious trouble with the AWD. We still have ours, but at 93K, due for some serious maintenace, I’m afraid.
Interesting… My parents have had two CR-Vs, worth a total of 220,000 miles (140k on the ’99 they still have, 80k on the ’06 they traded on a leftover ’08 Civic a few years ago). Both have been literally bulletproof. Not one single repair other than normal maintenance. I know the newer bodystyle – the 2002 would be included – had some pretty serious problems with A/C compressors around 100k miles, and two family friends with CR-Vs of that style had them. But Honda actually ponied up the $2500 (roughly) in each case, despite them being way out of warranty. Also, as for the 4WD problems, I believe the CR-V’s rear diff is particularly finicky if the fluid is not replaced often, and also to improper tire rotation/replacement. The ’99 parentmobile CR-V just had another flush and fill (at home – twenty minutes plus the bottle of diff fluid) to remedy a whine that had come on about a week before. This is the third time in 140k that has happened, and it’s immediately gone away everytime with a fluid change. The only thing is the case holds 1.5 quarts, so you have to buy two quarts and are left holding .5!
I own an ’06 Mariner and it’s one of those vehicles that’s “good enough”. It has good enough room, good enough performance, good enough mileage, and an interior that is, you guessed it, good enough. The main positives are it’s maneuverability and the visibility out. The main negative for me are the seats and driving position. The seats are flat and hard and even for somebody like me with long arms the wheel seems too far away when the seat is positioned for the pedals. Oh, and putting the seat heater switch down between the seat and the door was just stupid.
We’ve got an ’02 3.0 4wd Escape with 121k on it – bought it used with 98k or so. The alternator light has been on much of the time for the past year or so but it still seems to be working, the stereo is a POS, as someone above said – ours works fine, until the unit gets too warm, and then hunts for stations on its own, and the display goes through all of its settings – over and over. This one also has an issue with the ABS – the pedal pulses any time I push it – as if a rotor is warped – but I know that neither one of them are. I do like the way that it sits and drives, and other than struts, tires, and a tune-up, the thing has been fairly inexpensive to run. I do think a bit about those transaxle problems sometimes. I did have to replace the IAC servo yesterday – three-minute repair – not looking forward to replacing that alternator, though . . .
has the trans ever been flushed? Mines been done twice in 144K and it shifts fine, but if yours has never been flushed in 121K i wouldn’t do it now.
N8 and all:
I work on them EVERY DAY, and although there were some trans failures, I rarely saw them other than the ’01 model year. ’05 and ’06 were much improved over the ’01–04 models.
Most rattles center around the rear hatch and struts, and it’s glass and struts. Krytox lube in the strut ball joints took out most of the rattles there. Front sway bar links get loose and rattle, usually after 40K–50K miles.
The alternator replacement: Not a hard job—
1) Disconnect battery negative cable
2) Remove right front wheel and inner fender splash shield
3) Rotate belt tensioner, remove belt
4) Remove axle nut and 2 lower strut-to-spindle bolts and nuts
5) Remove engine crossmember brace and drop exhaust from both manifolds(2 nuts front, 2 bolts rear)
6) Pull spindle outward, remove outer axle joint from wheel bearing
7) Remove 2 nuts holding inner axle joint to engine bracket, then remove axle assembly
8) Remove alternator from engine bracket(3 bolts) and push alternaor into rear lower corner of engine compartment.
9) Remove alternator bracket from engine(3 bolts)
10)Disconnect the gang plug and B+ eyelet from alternator, and rotate downward to remove from vehicle.
Sounds long and involved, I know, but usually takes no more than an hour to an hour and a half following these steps.
I have a buddy in Ohio that bought one of these at a gov’t auction, four cylinder, stick shift with the true 4WD. Had rust over the arches and had 145K on it and was $2K. Was a nice trucklet and ran decently.
It ran good but it wasn’t deer proof!