What was supposed to be a milestone in my life – taking delivery of my first new car – ended up being thrown off by a slight mishap during PDI. And one that raises questions about Mazda’s Mexican operations.
Before I took delivery of my new Mazda3, myself and my Dad gave the car a thorough once over on the dealer lot. There, we noticed the faint gouge just above the rear badge, as well as some white marks in and around the badge (less visible in the photo). I decided not to take delivery of the car and let Yorkdale Dufferin Mazda’s PDI guy work out the problem.
The next day, I got a call from the dealer, saying the Mazda would replace the hatch with an entirely new unit. It turned out that the original hatch wasn’t sprayed correctly, and Mazda would send a new, pre-painted unit to replace it. The 2.0L versions are built at Mazda’s all-new Salamanca, Mexico facility. Perhaps there are some teething problems with the plant. One OEM quality engineer I spoke to suggested that there may have been pre-delivery damage. But according to the legal disclosure given to me at delivery, there is none. Should it emerge, I have legal recourse.
Almost immediately, I ordered snow tires – and the timing was perfect, given that we have our first snowfall today. On the advice of my tire vendor, I went with the Hankook W419 RS, which are apparently performance oriented winter tires. We’ll see how they fare.
Thanks to Jason Donio and Yorkdale Dufferin Mazda for their assistance. They can be reached at 416-789-4521.
Thanks to Jason and Mitch at Tirespot. While they tires were purchased at retail with no discounts, I cannot recommend them enough. 416-283-1300.
2015 model and long term make no sense at all, if you tell me 2010 or earlier, ok!
It’s a long term test because I’m going to be reporting on it for the long-term (i.e. as long as I own the car. A few years at least).
Point taken, but I can see Volt 230’s logic. How many people (including some of the B&B) say they’re going to keep their new ride “forever.” A couple of years go by, and suddenly the “forever” car is gone.
He can report on it for several years, or however long it takes him to leave for a different news outlet. Whichever is lesser. :)
It’s his car, so he can keep reporting on it wherever he goes.
Every single buff book does a “long term test” where they get a new car for an extended period of time and report on it. Typically a year. I’ll be keeping mine for 3. It’s not a difficult concept to understand. The main difference is that at most buff books, it’s a 12-month free loan. I am paying out of pocket for this one.
Don’t forget your tax write-off, I assume Canada has similar business deductions as the US, but I could be wrong
Hence the lease, rather than purchasing it.
Smart man, your grandma taught you right
Huh, made in Mexico, eh?
The two 3’s I mentioned in my earlier post bought earlier this Spring by my friends are both Japanese built. There have been rumours about Mazda’s problems in the new Mecican factory, and stories about railroad transport damage. Honda too has had a bad time setting up in Mexico.
So, not surprisingly, Tresmonos has been correct by the sound of it concerning the vast problems facing OEMs setting up there, including burning out home country staff trying to fix them.
I think it’s the title phrasing that scans wrong. Needs to be “long term test update,” not “long term update,” since it’s the test, not the update, that’s long term.
Of course. Compared to the several hours, or maybe a few days’ time most magazine reviewers spend with a car that they review, even 6 months is “long term.”
Volt 230 must have a short circuit somewhere upstairs. ;-)
I do keep my cars “forever” or at least 10+ years. The only reason I would consider upgrading before at least 2030 is technology, specifically radar cruise and lane keeper. Still, I’m waiting for the tech to become more developed.
These real-world reports are excellent. It appears you are finding your own editorial style.
There are not enough facepalms in the world.
So much for Quality Control.
Congrats on the new car.
As a big testifier to Mazda’s QC and reliability, as they were until only now made purely in Japan, this makes me nervous (the advent of Mexican assembly operations).
Maybe there is “something” (quantifiable) to Japan fabricated vehicles (with Japanese manufactured components), or maybe not.
This is one of those “life experience” biases ‘things,’ as I’ve never had a non-maintenance issue with a “made in Japan” vehicle out of 6 of them.
Then again, maybe not (where’s Tresmonos?).
*I used a lot of air quotes.
“…as they were until only now made purely in Japan”
That’s not correct. There was the joint Ford-Mazda plant in Flat Rock, Michigan that produced Mazdas for quite a few years.
ooops – l forgot about Flat Rock (plus, Mazda sold Ford made Tributes, aka old Ford Escapes, too).
Also, older Japanese-built Mazdas weren’t that reliable either.
There has been talk of “teeth-problems”, not just for Mazda’s Mexico plant, but for other automakers as well.
There is definitely something quantifiable with respect to where the vehicle or part is made.
The same goes with engineering. I’ve dealt with USA and Mexico based assembly and engineering. My only interaction with Japan is my USA plant being ran by Japanese management. I can’t really speak for that hemisphere.
You should be worried.
Why should he be worried? I have a Chrysler PT Cruiser, made in Mexico. Ten years now with minor problems only. Water pump after seven years. All tires replaced, crappy Goodyears came on the car. Three of the four on the ground failed bu having the tread come loose. But the basic car has been tight and mostly problem free. My previous car was a 1990 Acura Legend that I drove for sixteen years and 228,000 mostly trouble free miles. The PT will not make it that long. It was bought in the US and must be returned to the US when I become a permanent resident of Mexico. I probably will buy a CRV made in El Salto, Jalisco. About thirty miles from where I now live. I like buying vehicles that are made locally.
Dead Weight
I have a 9 year old Sienna. Well maintained. 95K miles. Earlier this year, we bought my wife a new Odyssey.
The new car is faster, quieter, smoother, safer and tighter. Its called progress.
I still have the Sienna and use it on weekend for home depot runs. Its really not same after 10 years. It runs perfectly, but its used and feels like it.
My 9 year old 8 feels tighter, doesn’t shake violently on start-up, revs smoother, has no suspension noise over rough pavement, has cruise control/HVAC and other buttons/controls that work faithfully, has less road noise and feels newer than the 2014 Cadillac ATS with 6500 miles on the odometer I recently rented.
It’s a matter of vehicle and such being used for comparison purposes, I think.
“My 9 year old 8 feels tighter, doesn’t shake violently on start-up, revs smoother, has no suspension noise over rough pavement, has cruise control/HVAC and other buttons/controls that work faithfully, has less road noise and feels newer than the 2014 Cadillac ATS with 6500 miles on the odometer I recently rented.”
You recently rented an ATS??? Tell me more!!
Said no TTAC poster, ever.
Seriously, broken record. We got it.
With age comes wisdom, Chris.
Experience is the best teacher.
We who were your age salute your GONNA CONQUER THE WORLD ‘N LET EVERYONE KNOW IT ROAR attitude.
Go get ’em, baller.
“I’ve never had a non-maintenance issue with a “made in Japan” vehicle out of 6 of them.”
I’ve had 3, and had minor issues on all of them.
’04 TSX: infamous windshield pop and rocking driver’s seat
’03 S2000: clutch slave cylinder died, timing chain tensioner noise, leaky differential mount
’11 TSX: had a minor paint flaw fixed at delivery as well as a loose handbrake; has also had several Bluetooth problems that are driving me up the wall.
Funny thing is for some long term is 2 to 3 yrs. To most folks it’s after you finish paying off your 72 month loan
Are you deliberately being obtuse, do you not understand the time-tested convention of publications doing a “long-term test” of around 12 months or did you not understand the detailed explanation that I just wrote out? I’m not trying to be rude, just making an attempt to understand your thought process. If you’ve ever picked up a car magazine, you are familiar with the term. And as I mentioned earlier, I am keeping the car for 3 years at a minimum.
settle down Mr Kreindler.
I think he was commenting on the trend of “long term” loans. Not long-term test article series.
No, read the first post on the thread. Volt doesn’t think that a long-term test should start until the car is five years old. (The guy must not read a lot of long-term tests.)
Yep, Motorweek does a yr long “long term evaluation” on some of their tested vehicles, that’s when some people tell you that the motor is just getting “broken in”, so by that standard,I suppose you are correct, the real long term test is the real world daily grind of bumper to bumper traffic, weather, pot holed streets etc year after year.
Volt,
Most people aren’t cheapskates like you and I. Most consumers are done with their new vehicle purchases within 3 years.
You’re being unrealistic if you believe an auto journalist will document a 10 year review for you.
Not CHEAP, Tres, but rational.
Buy quality vehicles, at the best price possible (through negotiation and/or timing), as long as we are more confident that we will not regret the purchase in year 2, year 4, year 6, or even year 10, of the ownership period (or longer).
Spend the money on regular high quality oil/filter, coolant, spark plug/wire/coil pack, trans fluid, brake fluid, etc., changes (and for those of us slightly capable with a wrench, do it ourselves).
Buy quality, cry once.
As a bonus, don’t be slaughtered by trading in or selling the vehicle in the slaughter part of the depreciation curve that consists of years 3 through 6.
Honestly, I rent at least 10 cars a year, and compared to my now 9 year old daily driver, the only thing most have as an advantage are extra Bluetooth/infotainment/gadget things.
As far as the solidity of the chassis, steering feel, quality and fit/finish, combination of ride quality and handling, etc., vehicles since 2004 to maybe 2006 just haven’t gotten better (with few exceptions), and in many cases, when it comes to mechanical systems and core components, they’ve gotten worse in many cases.
Perpetually buying/leasing new vehicles is one of the most damaging financial behaviors for most people. That’s why automakers/dealers love the hamster-on-a-wheel lease cycle.
Could be transport damage, or damage at the dealer lot. Any transport company picking this vehicle up from the factory would have noted this damage right away. If they don’t and it makes it to a dealer, they’re on the hook for the charges to repair it. They check and report these things at pick-up thoroughly, so I doubt it happened in-plant, unless everyone was sloppy along the way.
On the chance that it occurred during transport from the factory to the dealer, the carrier will go out of their way to hide the damage. Either by dropping the vehicle to the dealer at night and hope the dealer doesn’t notice until the time limit to report damages runs out (usually 24-48 hours). Or they just won’t say anything if the dealer employee receiving the vehicle is careless and doesn’t notice.
Regardless of where it happened, the dealer should have caught it at PDI and fixed it before putting it for sale.
I haven’t seen the rest of the hatch, but getting a pre-painted part from the plant for this scratch? Looks like something that could be polished and buffed or at worst re-sprayed the next day. Strange.
I would have doubts about the paint matching…if it was a collision damage repair, they would blend the paint on the surrounding panels, but I bet they won’t do that. And this is going to be a tough color to match.
Also, wherever they break through the factory finish (between hinge and body, between hinge and hatch, or both), there will be potential for corrosion.
Ask them what they’re going to do to mitigate those concerns.
I would doubt they’re going to send a complete, ready-to-attach hatch…probably just the hatch stamping, maybe with a window in it. If the dealership has to transfer parts from the old to the new hatch stamping, check carefully the glass install, exterior trim, the wiper/washer hardware install, the interior panel install, any wiring harness, the washer tubing from the main reservoir (if there is no separate rear reservoir)…basically anything that has to be attached to the stamped, painted sheet metal to produce a completed hatch. Check in particular that no clips, fasteners, or the parts themselves etc. were broken and that the paint was not compromised when any of those items were installed/attached.
Since the avg age of a car in America is now 11 yrs, this country is replete with cheapskates like me.
I haven’t seen one of these 3’s come off the transporter, but if it’s like many, a lot of the panels are covered with white film. If this flaw was under the white film, there is no way a transport company would notice it. Likewise, only the dealer would notice on removing the film
Our new Odyssey shipped with the driver and passengers doors misaligned with the fenders. So much so that it caused the drivers door to grind on the paint off the inside of the lip on the fender. This was a first for me, taking a new car back in under 100 miles. They fixed it eventually, but I was slightly disheartened. I would have been more unhappy if we had bought it and not leased it.
Do you wish that you had waited and got Mazda’s just announced zero mileage limit warranty?
My father took delivery of a custom ordered ’75 Mark IV. It arrived at the dealership 2 days late. When we arrived to get it, it had over 100 miles on the clock. Seems some joker took it for a joy ride. Never got the full story but it may have been from the rail delivery area.
No, I am eligible for it, since my car is a 2015.
Funny that they are increasing warranty coverage in Canada after reducing it in the US. (They went from 4/48 to 3/36 a while back.)
I can tell you that all new Lincolns go through a 100% drive inspection now, meaning that every single car is driven and inspected outside of the usual factory inspections. I believe the limit is around 50 miles per vehicle.
“I decided not to take delivery of the car and let Yorkdale Dufferin Mazda’s PDI guy.”
14 of 15 sentences in this post are complete. A-
Are you an English teacher? If not, stop grading our posts
… and stop making me so hungry ;-)
Mazda are expected to deliver their vehicles without flaws, why should I expect anything less from Derek Kreindler?
How much is your monthly lease payment to TTAC then? Oh right.
What’s a click go for these days?
So Derek – as a professional writer – shouldn’t be held to a standard because he publishes content that is free to me?
None of you pay me directly for my professional services either, but you are consumers of my work.
I assure you that your attitude toward inattention to detail on my part would not be as blase as your attitude toward the standard presented here.
@319583076
Oh, *are* we now?
Just kidding, but overall point taken and agreed to on proper grammar. We could all better ourselves and our writing through study of grammar. I think this should be more the point than attempting to shame DK.
.
“Mazda are expected to deliver their vehicles without flaws, why should I expect anything less from Derek Kreindler?”
Mazda ARE expected?
Sheesh!
He is not a professional writer,unlike Mr.Kreindler. Besides, the commenter wasn’t mean or rude about it, he was just pointing out a mistake. Take it easy.
It’s the little things in life…
Isn’t they?
The devil is in the details, or so they is sayin’.
Mazda in this sense includes the corporation and the dealership, therefore “are” is the correct form because “Mazda” as I used it is plural.
But why bother? We ain’t payin fur dis, so it don gotta be gud.
Problems are not the problem; coping is the problem.
Nice try, but no dice burger boy
That usage (Mazda are expected) is correct for British English, where businesses are considered to be collections of individuals, rather than a single entity.
@319583076
Problems and mistakes are opportunities for growth.
@ Lie2me
Dunning-Kruger effect
So, you think we’re all idiots, nice
Why would you think that the entire Mazda Corporation is plural? It’s only one operation, thus singular.
The only ONE exhibiting a Dunning-Kruger effect *ARE* you
In British English, collective proper nouns are plural. In American English, they are singular.
Collectives are conjugated in the singular. A Corporation is a collective and thus should be conjugated in the singular
It’s a crazy (mad) thing, but not all English speakers use the same rules or spellings.
Ok, if burger boy was from GB he might get a pass, but even Canadians don’t pluralize a collective like that
Actually, Canadians have their own unique take on this. (They split the difference between the UK and the US.)
https://www.noslangues-ourlanguages.gc.ca/bien-well/fra-eng/grammaire-grammar/svacn-eng.html
I understand the difference between Canadian and US English, I send them all my extra “U”s every month, but what we’re talking about is rarely used by the English much less anyone in North America
The “are” is correct sine Mazda is an organisation with multiple people.
The same with “the Police ARE hiring” assuming the PD has more than one officer….
Proper English gets lost in American slang. But it still is correct.
If Germans know the rules better than writers we are in trouble….
“The ‘are’ is correct since Mazda is an organisation with multiple people.”
In American English, the verb refers to the name of one “corporation”, which is singular. The fact that it is an organiZation makes no difference.
English language rules vary from place to place. I know that some people are uncomfortable with this sort of ambiguity, but that’s how it is.
“The same with “the Police ARE hiring”
Well, I better get my application in because I heard the Mazda are hiring.
Yeah, right
The plural of police is police.
“The police are hiring” refers to the fact that there are more than one of them.
“The police department is hiring” would also be correct because there is one department that is doing the hiring.
Anyway, this might help:
http://www.onestopenglish.com/grammar/grammar-reference/american-english-vs-british-english/differences-in-american-and-british-english-grammar-article/152820.article#agreement
Pourquoi ne pas parler français alors? Il est une forme tout à fait acceptable de communication et fait autant de sens
Correct or not few will understand you if you don’t speak in the same manner as your peers
Je ne comprends rien.
Quelle partie, l’anglais ou le français? ;-)
@Opus whereas in America, corporations are people now! Sigh.
“Mazda are” = Britspeak in The Mother Country and in former Brit colonies that are populated by POMEs.
POME = Oz, in case anyone was wondering
“POME = Oz, in case anyone was wondering”
Oh… pronounced “pommie” and standing for “Prisoners of Mother England”.
Yeah, I’ve seen that but didn’t know what it meant until consulting Mother Wiki.
It’s just “pom.” It’s not an acronym.
The “Prisoner of Mother England” explanation and its variants are thought to be urban legend. Here’s a more likely explanation:
http://www.worldwidewords.org/qa/qa-pom1.htm
POME is an acceptable acronym for Prisoners of Mother England
http://www.abbreviations.com/POME
That’s great, but it’s “pom” and the “Prisoners” explanation for the origin of the term is popular but incorrect.
I really think we need a Cadillac article or something. Kind of how greyhounds need that rabbit.
But I AM feeling quite accomplished in finding the start of this thread.
You’re right, POM (Prisoners of Milbrook) POHM (Prisoners of Her Majesty) or POME have no basis of ever having been used in history
While I am sure that Mother England had her share of prisoners, it doesn’t explain why Aussies refer to the English as “poms” (or more often than not, “whinging poms.”)
Doesn’t make me hungry, in the least. Now, if it were some really good ice cream…
Yeah, now that dinner’s over
I am not ready to buy a Mexican-built car. Maybe someday, but not today.
Why, my mother drives a 14 year old PT Cruiser that looks and operates like new
By PT Cruiser standards, “like new” has a very broad meaning, not all of it good.
My mother’s PTC has 38K miles on it, it’s like new, not to mention tricked out with all the PTC stuff
Me mum’s Outback is 14 years and 24k miles old. (Had to go POME with the Outback, didn’t I?) It’s needed some rubber seals (doors, hatch & window) replaced, and it’s still not like new. Silly CA sunshine doesn’t care if it’s driving or parked.
I think the bigger issue is that Mazda is new to production in Mexico. I’m considering a Mexican-built VW for my next car.
My Mexican-built (strike 1) VW MkV (strikes 2-10) is actually just fine.
Things I’ve fixed in 6.5 years and 110k+ miles:
-resistor for the climate control (2x)
-driver’s side seat belt buckle
-…..
-rear door lock regulator (I think, haven’t fixed it yet)
Technically it’s had the fewest repairs of the three vehicles we currently own, even though it has the most mileage. And the other two are Made In Japan.
What do you think of the road noise? I almost pulled the trigger when mazda had 0 down 199 a monh leases on 3s but the road noise seemed as bad as my neon. Do the better equipped models have more insulation?
Man, what a lot of haters!
I hope you enjoy your new car once it is delivered. I’m looking forward to hearing about the long-term ownership experience.
@ Derek.. Congrads it looks good, love the colour. Regardless of where the damage was done, its the dealers problem. I’m sure they will fix it to your satisfaction.
Three years? Sounds like long enough to do a thorough review.
Not trying to be confrontational, but…what makes you “sure” they will do so?
And this is kind of off the subject, but…why is the one with the smaller engine and less aggressive tires, probably smaller brakes and no special suspension tuning that I can discern the “sport” model? We all complain about nonsensical model nomenclature – Mazda is one of the more egregious offenders.
Here in Canada the sport indicates the hatchback model, it applies equally to the 2.0 and the 2.5, I.e. We have the sedan and the sport. Hyundai uses similar strategy with the Elantra, they have the sedan and GT (and also have/ had the coupe).
Derek, will you be Krowning your new Mazda?
Waste of money on a lease
Not if your intention is to buy (assuming your leased car is worth buying).
EDIT: Seems you were right Lie2Me.
It happens… rarely
Take credit where it is due, although depending on your cash flow situation I could see folks wanting to keep leases long term but not having the capital to do the initial buy. This is who I envision spending money on undercoating.
Probably not. I don’t plan to buy this car once the lease is over.
Two questions DK, if you could not write off the lease, would you have bought it? And why do you plan on not keeping it after the lease is up? Thanks for the reply.
I never considered it because the option has always been available to me. Why won’t I buy it? Because I want the new MX-5 or something sportier next time around.
Why throw out 2 years of lease payments on a car you know you won’t want in 2 years? Why not just get a beater and then BUY what you really want when you actually have the $$ in hand to pay cash for it?? You young folks today have no concept of delayed gratification. You “need” a car RIGHT NOW. BTW-before you ask-I own 3 cars outright (including a 2013), and have zero debt other than a few years left on my mortgage.
I explained all of it in the first story.
“You young folks today have no concept of delayed gratification.”
Yeah, Derek! Look at Phil here, he’s well into his crotchety years and all he’s got so far is that one wheel & tire.
But he keeps riding his bike and HE DOESN’T COMPLAIN about it!
One thing I learned from my Grandma – let your money work for you. The markets were kind to her, allowing her to buy her Fit in cash. I’m getting a better return by taking Mazda’s nearly free money and investing my cash into the markets. Thanks to the amazing year the S&P is having, I’m seeing about 10 percent YTD, which means I probably *could* buy my next, much better car in cash. Whether it will make sense to do that is another matter.
@Derek
You are a smart lad indeed. Amazes me how basic finance is lost on so many here. You don’t say no to free money. The ability to write-off some of the lease just makes it that much sweeter. The very best time to borrow money is when you don’t NEED to borrow it.
I’ll probably lease my 228i for the same basic reason – I will want something else in a few years anyway. I have a friend chomping at the bit to buy my Abarth, since I don’t drive it in winter anyway, I may just sell it to him once the snow falls. It’s been a fun 2 years, but time for something new.
Having an accountant for a brother helps as well. 228i is high on my list, come 2017.
Good luck with the new ride. I’m interested in your long term reports. Will be looking for something like the Mazda3 5-door in the next 2 years or sooner. The hatchback versatility, well-regarded Mazda handling and availability of 6MT are big draws for me.
I’ve been happy with the Hankooks I’ve had.
W409s were the best true snow tire for the money I’ve ever had and they were highly recommended by a Subaru snow surfing friend. They were 90% as capable in deep snow as Hakkapeliittas I’ve had, but were 1/2 as much in terms of price.
I’m not familiar with the W419s, though (they look somewhat similar).
Never thought about Hankooks. Might have to give a set a try some day. That said, I’ve got nothing but good things to say about the Michelin X-Ice 3’s I bought for my Escape.
The X-Ice are quality but oh-so-expensive as you expect from the Michelin Man.
There are so many brands of tires these days. I’m going to someday crack the code of the voodoo that goes on with tires, and all the various sub-brands and little known brands like Federal, Tempra, Hercules, etc.
You mean the important codes like year of manufacture? My local tire guy tried putting a 4 year old set off the rack but I insisted on checking the codes before I let them mount them on my snow wheels. Instead of 8 year old tires now, I’d be riding on 12+ year old tires if I had not been insistent. The tread & studs still look great but sidewall rot can cause a catastrophic blowout on a 48 degree day on dry roads at 65 mph after an hour.
I switched last year to the xices from blizzaks (3 cars on different blizzaks) and I have to say it. The Michelin’s are nowhere near as snow biased as the blizzaks, but are far more civilized on dry pavement.
I really like the Hankook iPike w409s s I have on my Rover. Had the same on my last Volvo too. They work exceedingly well in the snow, and are decent on dry roads. Two seasons on this set and they are wearing very well.
The W409s wear extremely well. I ran mine for 4 winters (22,000 miles) and they still had significant tread left of the useable in snow kind (probably 40%).
It’s amazing how far snow tried have come. Blizzaks & Nokians used to be the only game in town 20 years ago.
*I always warn people to stay as far away from the Hankook Icebears, as it’s a terrible snow tire, and it’s hard to believe that the W409 iPikes and Icebears could have been produced by the same tire company.
I agree that Hankook makes a good winter tire. Among my group of close friends, we’ve been through one set of W404s and four sets of W409s and they’ve been excellent tires. All were studded.
One look at the tread design of the Icebear is enough to tell you that it’s barely a winter tire. More like a heavily siped all-season with a winter rating. Even their Optimo 4S winter-rated all-season has a more aggressive tread than the Icebear. But I’m sure the Icebear is more suitable for some drivers than their serious, studdable winter tires. Those who drive aggressively in cold weather but rarely in truly slippery or severe winter conditions would appreciate the more dry/wet-performance oriented tread with a rounded shoulder and less tread void area. There’s a tire for everyone.
RS-3s have worked out for me for the last few years at autocross and on track. They grip all day long and never seem to overheat or get too greasy, even doing 30 minute sessions.
I’m buying a new set this spring in fact.
Normally a Blizzak loyalist, I was tempted into a set of W606 last year because some website had them for a ludicrously low price. They’re okay I guess, if tread wear stays even then I’ll be satisfied.
Hey Derek , enjoy your zoom zoom ,I have lived in that area years ago ,when that dealer site was a Canadian Tire store.Now i have given away my age.
Come on Derek. There’s no way you needed snow tires in T.O today. Stop feeding this myth of the Great White North. You have to go pretty far north (PARRY Sound maybe)to need snow tires today. Kidding aside, I’ll be reading your updates on your Mazda 3 hatch, since it’s the closest replacement (Mazda-wise) for my ’06 Mazda 6 wagon. I call it a BIG hatchback. And I love it.
That’s not a factory defect (or there would be many like it) and they aren’t going to ship one painted from Mexico. Rather they are going to swap it off another car on the lot. They’ll fix it on the other car. I’ve had it done before when I was in car business.
I the original explanation does not sound plausible. This one does.
Prepare to be amazed at how quickly the new hatch is shipped!
I assume this would be handled as a warranty repair, so it would have to show Mazda3 GS VIN# such-and-such as getting this new hatch. If that’s not done, and the hatch comes off of the one other car at that dealership that could provide a hatch (I checked inventory), Derek will be able to tell if he can query Mazda’s online service information system, whatever it is they call it.
You have to be careful telling customers stuff like this…
Hey Derek, I wasn’t clear if you had actually taken delivery of the car now, with the promise of the hatch repair, or waiting for the repair to be completed, then taking actual delivery. Since you bought winter tires, I’m going to assume the former.
I understand the magazines call one year a “long term” test. And Derek is going to go for three years (min.) and call that a “true long term” test. But to me “long term” means 10+ years. (In my family: 1966 El Camino, 11 years, 170k miles; 1966 Pontiac, 13 years, 150k miles; 1976 Nova, 9 years, 150k miles; 1974 Chevy station wagon, 10 years, 180k miles; 1987 Mazda 626, 17 years, 170k miles; 1989 Toyota Camry, 14 years, 150k miles; 1990 Volvo 240, 20 years, 220k miles – and a few others we didn’t keep so long.)
To me a quality car is just getting broken in at 3 years. If I have anything wear out, or anything of significance fail, in 3 years I am seriously upset. Unfortunately, no one seems to be compiling data on really long-term serviceability for the few of us who really use cars for something close to their actual life. I get a laugh out of youngsters who ask questions like “I’ve had the car for 6 years and it has 90k miles, should I fix the small things or get a new one, since this one is almost worn out”?
Let me introduce you to Consumer Reports and truedelta.com. A one-car sample gets increasingly meaningless with age.
In 10 years, that information is worth nothing. You see, you really wish you had the ten-year info on the first year so you knew whether to buy it or not. So it’s a really weird request.
Turf, this site is about evaluating new cars, not evaluating cars that are ten years old.
And, honestly, I’d find an evaluation on a ten year old car almost worthless unless it took into account all the factors that went into the evaluation…such as…
Was the driver an old guy or a 24-year-old hoon? What was the car’s maintenance history? Was it driven mainly in town or on the road? What environment did the car live in? Was it ever in an accident? All that stuff affects reliability, is unique to each car, and probably has less and less to do with the original quality, engineering or design of the car as time drags on.
Take the most reliable car made today, drive it hard, don’t maintain it, and I guarantee you in 10 years it’ll be a junkheap.
Well, there is “Junkyard Find” and Sajeev’s pieces, so there’s that
Cars get inspected by the dealer right as they come off the truck and signed off on for damage – to relieve the trucker of any damage liability. But that doesn’t mean a lazy dealer person did a thorough check. Could have happened in the shop during PDI or detail too. Not necessarily factory damage.
Shoulda gotten the sedan!
If your definition of being a cheapskate is keeping a car for more than 3 years then count me in. I buy my cars and trucks new and I have had one for 18 years, one that I presently own going on 16 years, and my wife had a Honda Accord for 17 years. If something gives me good service I usually will keep it for a long time. I don’t expect Derek to keep his car that long but just wanted to add my comment.
I wouldn’t start pointing fingers at the Mexican plant yet. The same thing happened on a newly built for me MINI Cooper back in 2012. They corrected the situation to my satisfaction. One thing I’ve learned when buying brand new cars is that no car is perfect if you’re a perfectionist.
There is a lot talk on here about Mexican assembly. I just brought home a new Mazda 3 hatchback today and the point of final assembly is listed as Japan, with 85 percent Japanese parts content? Very impressive vehicle by the way. The best seats I have found on a Japanese vehicle, an area where I always felt they fell short.