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Today’s Quote of the Day actually comes from someone I know, with a used car question.
“this guy im sleeping with wants to sell me 05 caliber 125k [77,000 miles] for $6k. Good deal?”
You don’t need to be a North Georgia used car salesman to know that this is a deal that delivers a 5-6x ROI on your $1,000 Manheim Special Caliber.
As it turns out, the gentleman selling the Caliber has no less than four lots and drives an Aston Martin and a late model Gallardo. Clearly, I’m in the wrong business.
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What are you trying to tell us Derek, that you’re no longer sleeping with Steven Lang because of this? I think we all knew
What are you trying to tell us Derek, that you’re no longer sleeping with S teven Lan g because of this? I think we all knew
You could say that again!!!
Perhaps the 6k says something about your friend’s relative talents?
I think she needs to start dating guys of a higher caliber…
… or start a Journey to Dodge the guys only interested in Rams
Either way, she needs to find a Challenger for his affections. Or be Intrepid enough to buy a car on her own.
I ended up selling my SRT-4 with 45k miles for $9000. Oh well. Good riddance, it was a fun but fragile car.
That seems like a lot of money for a high-mileage Caliber.
125k kms is high mileage?
For a crappy Caliber, yes!
Oh, thought it was 125000 miles. $5000 for a 2007 at 125km… hmmm… that seems average. You could find cheaper.
What was fragile on your SRT-4? I flogged the bejeebus out of mine, stage 2 w toys, dozens of track days etc. Never skipped a beat. Traded it with 70k for 7500 in 09. The clutch fork was going at the end, a common problem but that was it.
Suspension and wheels got pretty wrecked by Montreal. Cracked two 19s plus bearing and other damage. Also the throttle position sensor went twice.
Cracked wheels and damaged bearings are a direct result of a +2 wheel and tire combo IMHO.
Let me guess, it went through brakes faster than stock ones and wasn’t quite as snappy (ceteris paribus re: mods)
19 inch wheels were standard on the Caliber SRT4, so there wasn’t much excuse for Chrysler having specified insufficient wheel bearings.
Ha didn’t even occur to me he might be talking about the Caliber SRT-4! much more germaine to this conversation. Yeah wouldn’t put 19’s on a Neon but that Caliber did come with 19s. As a satisfied Neon SRT-4 owner who bought my car new, I was not the least bit interested in the Caliber SRT-4. But hey the SRT engineers had to work something up from the turd they were given.
Yea SRT4’s were supposed to be incredibly stout. Only issue I ever heard was that the OEM axles were not up to the task. They used to call them “skittles” around these parts because of the paint options.
What did you replace your Skittle with? I have a DSM and I’m afraid I will miss it too much when it’s gone. I test drove an SI but it just does not have enough oomph behind it. Hate VW & Subaru. Can’t afford an Evo X. Don’t want another Euro. Don’t know if I trust the Ecoboost or Ecotec for reliability. Quandary.
Putting 19’s on the puny little Neon chassis is probably asking for it. The wheel bearings were nothing special though I never did take one out in all of my track laps in that car.
You did remind me, the those TPS wires, that was a know problem they would rub through the insulation and short out. I had to fix that up just to trade the car in with no check engine light. I had forgotten.
Me I traded my SRT-4 for a WRX.
The Caliber wasn’t based on a Neon chassis. Under the skin it was mostly Mitsubishi.
Yeah was mixing SRT-4 generations…there is only one “skittle” and those are the Neon SRT-4. Neon chassis with a PT Cruiser front subframe.
The chassis was Mitsu? I believe the engine is GEMA.
Well, an ’07 with 125,000 on Autotrader is in that range. The way cars hold up, it’d probably run for a few more years. And $2,000 a year to drive around is pretty cheap, as long as you don’t have a catastrophic failure. Start adding your $400/mo new-car payment and you’re already at $5 grand by the beginning of year #2.
Thing is; they didn’t make Caliber in’05.
Encyclopedia Brown spots a problem!
The Dodge Caliber wasn’t introduced until 2007. The retail price for one with 77K miles is actually higher than $6K too.
“this guy im sleeping with wants to sell me 05 caliber 125k [77,000 miles] for $6k. Good deal?”
So many things wrong with that person’s life summed up in one sentence. Either that or it is a brilliant plan to get you to never see him again because you’re mad about the horrible car he sold you.
I don’t know, if God hath no wrath like a women scorned, you don’t know what wrath is until you add a crappy car to the mix
Good point Lie2me, it might not be just the Caliber that is missing some parts. At least you can replace the parts on the Caliber.
Looks exactly the same as the one my Mom bought my Sister-in-Law.
$12K with ~30K miles on it, about 5-6 years ago. It was an epic piece of doggy-doo. By 50K it needed most of the suspension rebuilt to pass inspection. Every year it needed SOMETHING to pass inspection. The CVT was making weird noises by 80K. Lots of interior bits fell off. That cat failed, and it needed O2 sensors, and sundry other CEL-related stuff a couple times. Just a thoroughly offal car. Traded for a used Chevy pickup recently, as my brother and wife now have a landscaping business and needed a 2nd truck. I think they got $1500 towards the truck.
Had Mom consulted me, it would have been the nicest Corolla $12K could buy.
’05 Caliber eh? I can’t help her (him?) with that, but I do have a bridge for sale.
It depends on whether or not she’s trading her ’03 Cobalt in on it.
P.S. Unless it has an announcement for a bad transmission, a salvage title, or is at a TRA-style sale, an ’07 Caliber with 75k miles goes for WAY more than $1,000, especially with income tax time coming.
That’s used car market 101…
01/07/15 NASHVILL Lease $4,300 92,902 Above BLZ RED 4G A Yes
01/07/15 CEN FLA Regular $3,200 99,289 Avg RED 4G A Yes
12/23/14 NASHVILL Lease $3,550 102,239 Avg STONE WH 4G A Yes
12/23/14 ATLANTA Regular $2,850 104,893 Avg WHITE 4G A Yes
12/16/14 NASHVILL Lease $3,500 105,131 Avg BRT SILV 4G A Yes
12/18/14 MISS Regular $3,600 113,095 Avg WHITE 4G A Yes
12/15/14 NC Regular $4,200 129,462 Above SILVER 4G A Yes
12/18/14 ST PETE Regular $2,900 137,155 Avg GRAY 4G A Yes
12/30/14 FT LAUD Regular $1,900 151,500 Below RED 4G A Yes
What happened to this market? Honestly it sounds like a $900 beater to me and yet those are not the facts. You used to be able to get half decent stuff for $1200 if you knew the right wholesaler (stuff that ran and you could retail for 2500+)
“You used to be able to get half decent stuff for $1200 if you knew the right wholesaler”
The person in the story is sleeping with the wholesaler, apparently “knowing the right wholesaler” doesn’t mean what it used to
Its the market more than the scumbag tactics of the dealer in this case I have an issue with… I’ll take my chances with a Neon over a Caliber and yet even beat they are doing mid 3s.
Most new car dealers around here run everything through the block nowadays and the reason is simple – you get true market value.
Instead of having a wholesaler come in and beat you up on a package of cars where you’d have to shuffle the numbers around to make things balance out knowing you probably made out worse on a few units you didn’t ‘package’ together correctly, you run everything through the block and the market speaks for its real value. You may not get as much on a unit or two, but you don’t get beat up as bad on the one you would’ve given away to a wholesaler either.
Don’t get me wrong, there is still plenty of wholesaling going around, but the days of walking into a big new car store and buying up the entire back line of 50-60 trades and aged inventory is more or less a thing of the past.
My partner still has stores he can deal with directly and I had a Ford store here myself until the GM quit. One advantage to just selling off the back line is you don’t have to worry about reconing for the auction, transport, and – worst of all – the fees. ADESA is really bad with high-dollar transactions, but even a typical Manheim buy is at least $250-450 for a mid-priced car. I bought a ’13 Fusion Titanium yesterday for $14,9 and the fees alone were $425. Ridiculous.
Smartphones also put a big pinch on wholesaling, but that’s another story for another time…
“Most new car dealers around here run everything through the block”
Explain this, so I can appreciate everything else you’ve said, thanks
The way it used to work was you got your product in three major ways, trades, auction of some type, and new car deals via a wholesaler who may or may not be directly affiliated with said new car dealer. The first two are obvious, but how the latter worked was a bit murky (at least around here). Everything stemmed from relationships, either you had a relationship with a new car dealer’s used car manager (UCM) or GM, or a wholesaler did and offered you cars typically in a package (i.e. you get these three cars for $3K even) *plus* a CASH fee to the wholesaler. I’m not sure who assembled the packages (the UCM or the wholesaler) but typically there was junk in them you didn’t want and couldn’t sell along with things you did want. Literally the whole process was a bit shady and it was not uncommon to deal with the local mafia. Frequently wholesalers/UCMs/other dealers were also tied into drugs, loose woman, and gambling rackets I **** you not.
Anyway the reason you did this was to control fees and other costs. In Flybrian’s example he paid a $450 fee to by a Fusion at 14,9. If he had purchased it directly from the Ford dealer’s GM/UCM or from a wholesaler maybe the “v*g” would have been $200 cash. But as he explained, when you did packages you could get burned on a per unit basis. So imagine a 13 Fusion Titanium, a 13 Fiesta stick, and I dunno an 01 Hyundai for 30K. So if you figure the Fusion is worth 15, the Fiesta 12, you effectively end up with junk for 3K but say you have a customer lined up for the Fusion at 18 and don’t want the Fiesta or Hyundai. What do you do?
Lie2Me,
He means they send them to auction. The auction block.
@KixStart, Thanks!
You and I are going to have to hang one of these days, so much has changed in the last eight years I barely recognize it. We used to get beat up on packages but I feel like these days if you go to Manheim or Tri-State (local) you get so buried on fees between that and the house pack how can the small fry shop compete?
Re: the $425 on 14,9 did you run it through post sale? The last buy Manheim I made was for me personally and it was a $250 on 11,2 in 2010 but I didn’t do post sale.
Sorry, it was $15,900 and the fee was $440. No PSI.
One thing I’ve learned from my partner is to approach an interested party off the block after the run and offer to sell it to them on OVE, which is only a $125 ‘Seller Success Fee’ and a $50 ‘Facilitation Fee.’
Same thing used to happen to us, we would approach people and they would approach us after rejecting the final bid. I can’t remember how we were getting away with it, maybe it was OVE.
There’s a local Ford dealer here that has a high volume used lot under their umbrella. They take all the non-financeable trades from their new store, send them through the detail bay and put them on the back line of the used lot priced at high retail, but marked “as-is”.
Each one I’ve inspected has had several expensive faults, yet they refuse to budge to a reasonable auction price level, even after I point out that I’d be saving them the fees. Perhaps they have enough suckers buying with their eyes after their admittedly good detail crew has gone to work.
Subprime used car loans?
I have a friend who got partially buried on an MY11 Hyundai Elantra recently and she admits her credit is “not that good”. I checked over the invoice and between my scowls I noticed they put her in at a finance rate of 4.3%. So maybe FICO mid to high 600 gets what used to be a good new car rate? The Ford dealer might be issuing a whole bunch of questionable paper in your case instead of dumping their so-so to junk trades on the block.
I have a similar but I feel more legit strategy. I have about 35-45 cars on the ground at any one time:
~30 are all mid-priced nice inventory, 5yrs-newer lower mileage models
~5 luxury or sport high-line (incl a ’12 CL550 and an ’08 Continental GT Speed we have for no reason right now)
~5-10 reconditioned trades. And if they’re drivable and good enough, I DO invest the money to make them presentable but dependable. You’ll takes some dents and wear on a 10 year-old Explorer, but you’d prefer it to at least start and drive every day versus being cosmetically above reproach.
My local competiton is comprised of sled lots or new car franchises, so we’re lucky in that we are the only ‘nice’ used car dealer around.
In regards to those low-priced reconditioned trades, I try to market it as buying a discount shirt for $25 at Dillards versus the exact same shirt for $25 at Goodwill. You feel you got a better deal buying at a markdown from a nicer retail outlet than if you simply got what you paid for at a lower-end store – even its the exact same price. Plus, we do actually fix our cars.
I like the strategy and almost “premium outlet store” (i.e. Tanger Outlets) marketing angle (although I do not know what Dillard’s is). Do you have a website? Do you also offer service for the oddball models? I know if I could swing 30K on something like a late model CL550 I’d feel better knowing it would have a place to be serviced vs the dealer (or at least pointed to a reputable indy).
“Plus, we do actually fix our cars”
What-a-concept.
Clicky my Screenname for the hotlink -> motorsportsflorida.com
We don’t do our own major service, but I have two independents locally that are exceptional, imo.
“The Ford dealer might be issuing a whole bunch of questionable paper in your case instead of dumping their so-so to junk trades on the block.”
These are in general 100k plus mile ~10 year old whips, so in many cases hard to finance.
“In regards to those low-priced reconditioned trades, I try to market it as buying a discount shirt for $25 at Dillards versus the exact same shirt for $25 at Goodwill. You feel you got a better deal buying at a markdown from a nicer retail outlet than if you simply got what you paid for at a lower-end store – even its the exact same price. Plus, we do actually fix our cars.”
You do have a valid point. There a plenty of sled lots around here, but also a good amount of higher volume Car-Max wanna-be type joints. I suspect these jokers will eventually send most of their trades to the block to dump them, but they probably have enough success duping people by mixing the turds in with the good inventory that it’s worth their while to clean em and let them sit on the lot for some amount of time.
The last one I looked at was an ’06 Escape V6 FWD, otherwise loaded that a customer of mine was interested in. Just over 100k miles, cleaned up nice, but intermittent charging light, air bag light, inop sunroof, inop RR window, and oily engine said it wasn’t worth the $8k they wanted. That sort of thing might pull 4k at auction on a good day around here and they wouldn’t even come close even after I offered a combo deal with that and an ’05 Focus they had.
I see a Challenger and a SLS Mercedes on your website. Did BTSR design it?
Overall I like the lineup and I’m surprised the Saabistas haven’t snatched up that MY03 (although maybe that year is problematic I dunno).
Had any interest on the MY10 5 series hatchback abomination?
EDIT: I also notice a distinct lack of Lexus, and even Acura/Infiniti. West Florida doesn’t care for those?
“The last one I looked at was an ’06 Escape V6 FWD, otherwise loaded that a customer of mine was interested in. Just over 100k miles, cleaned up nice, but intermittent charging light, air bag light, inop sunroof, inop RR window, and oily engine said it wasn’t worth the $8k they wanted. That sort of thing might pull 4k at auction on a good day around here and they wouldn’t even come close even after I offered a combo deal with that and an ’05 Focus they had.”
Insanity. I bought a ’12 Escape XLT 4-Cyl w/31k miles and a power seat w/’Structural Damage’ for $9,100 two weeks ago. I have an aquaintance in the biz that always gives a dirty look when I say I bought so-and-so and it has frame damage. “How can you sell stuff like that? Bad Carfaxes, too? How do you do it?” like I’m rolling clocks back or something. The same guy buys stuff like you mentioned for ridiculous money, makes sure they sparkle, shods them with the cheapest Goodride-brand Chinese tires he can, and offers them for high retail in the bad part of St. Petersburg. Fixes. NOTHING.
I’ll gladly sell the ’12 Escape under factory warranty with a ‘bent front right apron’ and sleep like a baby at night versus a rolling heap.
28-Cars:
Thanks! My landing page needs moar hemi, tho.
Lexuseseses are hard to buy, same with Acuras. I had few Acuras at one time and didn’t have much luck. I sell every Infiniti I get, usually a G35/7, FX, or QX. Jeeps don’t last long at all.
Everyone who has called me about the Gran Turismo has been from SE Florida – its a Miami car, not a Tampa car.
As far as the SAAB, I sold it on eBay for $5100 +++. Some guy in Texas is picking it up next week. Just gave me a deposit. The SAABs are like a joke between my partner and I here – he absolutely hates them, so I’ll buy one now and then just to get a rise out of him.
Find the Escapes with V6s and 4wd you can sell those at a premium. Those are the good ones that people want. Where you are the 4WD might not be as important but the Duratec V6s go and go
Nice sale on the Saab, it looks very clean for an ’03. I hope the Texan appreciates it.
I would offload that 5 series “thing” because I imagine its eating a big hole in your floorplan and you could put out two more appropriate Tampa cars with its money (unless you have no money in it for some reason). Maybe make some in roads with some Miami dealers if they have boring cars to trade on the cheap?
I realize the Sebring is a ‘vert and those are big down there, but I notice a certain mortal sin being offered as the drivetrain. Better go to confession before the Church of 3800 hears about this.
The 2007 Model Year was Caliber’s first, but it was introduced in the US at ’06 Detroit Auto Show, and officially on sale March that year. These early year intros are confusing, but then sellers can hide the car’s real age. So, buyer beware, and look up its history.
I don’t think it’s the greatest deal, mostly because it’s a Caliber that nobody should ever buy but seeing as how there is no such thing as a 2005 Caliber I would probably clarify the actual year.
I think if I had 6K to blow in the used car market though it’s not gonna be a Dodge Caliber.
I bet if she threatens to tell his wife and his other girlfriends, she could get a much better deal. Not to stereotype used car dealers or anything…
Are you implying that a lot of used car salespeople are slime-balls? That’s preposterous!
But yeah, this guy in particular sounds pretty greasy if he’s trying to sell a Caliber of questionable model year to the girl he’s banging. Anyone that respects another human would not make them drive a Caliber.
You nailed it.
At least someone else nailed it, amiright…?????
*rimshot*
She’s the kinda girl that says “guy I’m sleeping with,” (so I’m guessing one or both of them are married) and asks them for a good car deal.
So far, I’m impressed with neither of them.
My friend in Vegas had one that she took over payments for from one of her friends. The car fell apart before she was able to pay it off. I should text her and ask if she was boning the guy that sold her the Caliper.
UPDATE: I just asked and she responded, “WTH, why would you ask me that?” She still hasn’t answered the question.
LOL
You’re kinda a dick, but it’s funny.
Kinda a dick??
but I agree, funny
@Corey, bball, DW
Let’s play a game! You get a kick ass job in Florida, have to move, and can’t take your personal rides with you. With 20K in your pocket which of Flybrian’s car do you buy?
I’m beating him up on the MY11 Prius for 10K as a beater and then spending the other 10K on the MY04 335i Convertible for the real car.
http://www.motorsportsflorida.com/inventory.aspx?cursort=asc&curpage=1
09-12 Fusion is always my go to. A one owner Fusion for under $9K is right up my alley. I also like trucks. If I could get the Fusion and the Dakota for under $20K, I would be a happy man.
In a strange way, I’d also like the Suzuki Grand Vitara and a 3-series. At least one will work all the time, right?
I was thinking Dakota as well but I couldn’t say no to a ‘vert in Florida (and since its a out of warranty BMW I need a reliable car to complement it).
My buddy in high school had a Dakota ‘vert. It replaced his Jeep Comanche.
Ooo Jeep Commanche. There is some rare and forbidden fruit, sort of.
That Comanche was weird. He had an ’86, so I think it had the GM 2.8L V6. Nothing but problems. The Dakota was much better. The 3.9L V6 was unkillable.
2008 Genuine Stella 150cc (Stk #:120142)
Price: $2,995 1,744 miles
http://www.motorsportsflorida.com/2008_Genuine_Stella_PalmHarbor_FL_250651863.veh
I’ll stick it in the garage, work from home, and then trade it in, even steven, for a low-mileage, one owner, CPO 2014 Cadillac ATS in 2016.
(But seriously, one of the BMWs – probably the 335i ASSUMING I have access to my current mechanic who is a genius, being able to work on ANYTHING from my current rotary to zee German machinery of all kinds, and who trades me his work for my work).
I liked the MY09 335i coupe too but I thought the miles were too high on it and it would start exploding shortly into my ownership. I also didn’t know you were into bikes.
That 328i will be an anvil – it lacks the 2 things that have needed attention on my ’11 328i. No power seats and no headlight washers. That is about as basic as BMWs come, and will still be a ball to drive. That might actually be a completely base, no options car considering it doesn’t even have metallic paint. Talk about a unicorn!
I think it has leather, as in ’11 the 328i got leather, 17″ wheels, and the iPod/USB connectivity for free.
The Stella is super cute. I know nothing about them – are they any good? Too hot there for me to be in anything without A/C.
Actually you’re right it is a unicorn isn’t it.
I know zip about bikes personally.
I’m getting that Miata, because it’s Florida, then spend the rest on the Mariner Premier AWD for monsoon time and when I wanna haul stuff or have company.
Then I’ve got two nice white cars which go together in the driveway of my Spanish style.
Mariner? I had you pegged for the low mile’d Saab. Don’t get all practical on me now lol.
Flybrian needs a Mercury Villager Nautica Edition for Corey.
Naturally, and a Spinnaker edition Town Car for us to fight over.
I miss branding edition cars. Ford-Lincoln-Mercury seemed to love it. I do remember the Orvis edition JGC and LL Bean edition outback.
@bball: Ever seen a 1979 two-tone Bill Blass Edition Continental Mark V? What a car!
I drove a dove grey Cartier once. Smooth but awkward in proportion, power was me’h but this was the 400 (166bhp), not the 460 (which had 200bhp!).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lincoln_Continental_Mark_V
The Lincoln dealer I bought my MkT from has a 1988 Lincoln Mark VII Bill Blass for sale with under 16000 miles on it! I want it!
http://varsitylincoln.com/Detroit-Metro/For-Sale/Used/Lincoln/Mark-VII/1988-Bill-Blass-Tan-Car/34427642/
LOOK AT THAT THING!!!
Those wheel covers look like a b*tch to keep clean.
The Mark V Bill Blass is way better, but any domestic personal luxury couple is okay with me.
Beautiful, thanks for sharing but (1) LSC and not Bill Blass has the 5.0 H.O. (225bhp) starting in MY88 AFAIK and (2) 14,9 is a pipe dream even at 16K and like new. I had the 150bhp 5.0 in my Townie, you’ll wish you had the H.O. real quick.
Additional: Isn’t Sajeev under obligation to buy this according to the Geneva convention or something?
Bill Blass VII? LSC or no sale.
You’re right that the V is much more appropriate for the Bill Blass treatment. Sometimes I think about a Mark V as a toy car. Then I remember that I don’t have a barn as my garage.
I’d Coyote swap it anyway…
But I’d never buy that for $15K. Pass.
I need a barn.
That Mark VII has been there awhile. I asked if I could have it as my loaner car when the MkT was in to replace a damaged tire. No dice.
I need a barn too. Hell I’d live in a barn or warehouse with my fleet of cars.
Yeah, same.
My strange barn with land yachts, old trucks, and sports cars.
The tweed and wood door panel on that Bill Blass is a freaking win. What are the little circles on the fenders? Are those V8 emblems? Other than that, I was never a huge fan of that particular Mark. I’d choose to go final version (cause those still catch my eye) or older.
AND YES VILLAGER NAUTICA. Such 90s brilliance.
AND YES SPINNAKER, perfect for Florida.
But if we’re going FL, and we’re going TC, and we want rare – the answer can only be Cypress. The very special edition sold only in FL.
@CoreyDL
While this may be the rarest, my Congressional Town Sedan bests your Cypress in pure pimptastic opulance. Failing that, I’d roll the Golden Bear complete with ugly green carriage roof.
Well honestly I have been in several Saab examples, and shopped them as well. I have never been impressed, nor felt they were worth the reliability hassles, nor did they have acceptable interior quality. If it’s costing me as much or more than an Audi to maintain, it had better have a similar interior and be just as prestigious!
“If it’s costing me as much or more than an Audi to maintain, it had better have a similar interior and be just as prestigious!”
Ah I see your point on Saab as it falls into a similar category to Volvo, nice, imported, but might not be worth the hassle (on those Volvos which are a hassle). I never found Audi to be prestigious, for Euro prestige it was Silver Spirit/XJ/S-Class/7-Series in that order to me.
I’d kick in another $1000 and get the ’11 328i of course. And a stick no less! Sad color scheme and a sedan, but nothing is perfect.
I’m not big into the E90s but a stick of any flavor would be nice…
You guys are like everyone I’ve had on the lot today – all chatter, no action. Send me some deposits!
Seriously LOL…love you guys.
That ’11 328i is indeed as base as at gets. No connectivity either. No roof. Nothing. A pure drivers car or something. I also bought it cheap, so there’s that.
DW proves he’s a man of cultured taste by choosing the STELLAAAAAAA.
Wait till you see the Town Car I bought for $450.
Get me a $110K+ office job in Tampa and I’ll be right over with that deposit. My skills include posting to TTAC, looking like I am busy, mocking all post 2010 technology, and oogling or berating the interns depending on gender. Nice BMW too, an actual car and not an extension for Face****!
“Wait till you see the Town Car I bought for $450”
Dude that’s not even right to tease us like that.
LOL, 28 you and I are similar in so many ways. All of these things are true for me too, except we only have interns in the summer -and never in my department.
This is scary, I thought my defects were unique to me.
@Flybrian
You sure about the lack of connectivity? As an ’11 it should have both basic BT and a USB port under the armrest lid, as they were free that year. You can’t see the USB port sitting in the driver’s seat unless you have the flexibility of a Cirque de Sole performer. Depending on the build date, you may or may not need a special Y-cable to use the USB with an iPod or iPhone. Later ones just use the Apple USB cable.
I already have its near equivalent as a wagon, so sorry man! But I will mention it to the BMW Forum for you – always guys looking for 6spd cars. Isn’t black on black kind of a hard sell down your way? I’m sweating just thinking about it, and it is ~5F up here.
@KRHODES1
Appreciate speading the word!
I’ll have to double-check that connectivity. I felt certain it didn’t have it due to being unable to pull up an Bluetooth interface option on the radio menu as I can in the ’09 328i I also have w/premium pkg. I hope I was mistaken because Bluetooth and a stick = no excuses.
I didn’t realize the 328i was as pure as khr has uncovered.
I would definitely go with that now that I know.
If I needed a car now I would actually look @ that assuming clean title and healthy underside.
I’d are rather have a more Spartan, less powerful 328i than that more powerful 335i for all reasons khr mentioned.
Well if I take a job offer I got this week I’d be in St Pete 4-6 weeks a year. Gives me an excuse to buy something and drive it back up to the Detroit area.
I’ll trade you my grandmother’s 1990 Toyota Camry with 42K miles. She doesn’t drive it and I’m the only one that has an interest in it.
I’ll take it. eBay-bound, baby!
Grandma needs a Zephyr.
No love for the ’76 Eldorado?
The triumvirate of Johan the Zohan, CT Mel-o-dy, and Pen Boy has soured me so much on Cadillac I was unable to even consider the mighty 500 Eldo.
Which would you choose with your $20K?