TTAC Commentator pleiter writes:

Convince me one way or another, about OBD-II. I want to know if I should invest in it for personal use. I need to know things like what are the major options, is it just pigtails and a PC laptop interface, now, does it work very well with one publication or not (Chilton’s, Haynes), will I still have the risk of purchasing wrong electronic parts that are not returnable.

Also, is there any emerging market for economy chips or economy (mpg) reflash? I know cold camshaft profiles are starting to show up, but I’m looking for something easier to implement and reversible, because I’m lazy.

I have a Scion tC and two 325i’s.

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Dave writes:

While I understand that recommended tire pressure is located on the door jamb in a car, what happens when the factory tires are replaced, upgraded, down graded, replaced with used or even recaps where available (are re-treads even available?), different tread and wear and heat ratings?

What I am trying to ask is: are the manufacturer’s recommendations applicable only to the factory tires, or to non- original brand replacements as well?

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TTAC commentator Lerxst writes:

I’ve got a 2004 Honda Odyssey with approximately 96k miles on it. It has developed a condition where the steering wheel mounted radio controls do not act as expected (i.e. Volume up changes the track, Volume down makes the volume go up, etc., sometimes). The dealer tells me that it’s not grounded well deep in the steering column, and thanks to the Odyssey Club, I have found the TSB that covers this problem.

The dealer would like about $280 of my hard earned money to go in and fix it. American Honda won’t cover it through goodwill due to the mileage.

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Hashim writes,

Dear Sajeev, I have a 2003 Model Honda Civic LX1. It has about 94000 Km (not Miles). I am very disturbed about the continuous chirp chirp sound I hear from my car when I start it. It goes like chrrp chrrp chrrp in continuous motion. Some guy told me to change the belts in my car, all done, even changed the timing belt; still the problem is there. I have no loose or cracked belts. But the problem is still there.

I have noticed that when I gently press my clutch, the sound immediately goes away, when I remove my foot, the chirping sound is back. I don’t like this, is there any easier way to get it fixed? Is the fix worth its price or should I just eat dust and be quiet?

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TTAC commentator edgett writes:

Since the current pushrod LS-X engines reportedly offers a better power-to-weight ratio than an equivalent Porsche engine, and returns excellent fuel economy, why aren’t other manufacturers emulating the same kinds of evolutionary upgrades which GM applied to their small-block V8?

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TTAC Commentator thetopdog writes:

I drive a 2006 Corvette Coupe (45k) with the 6-Speed manual. The past few months I’ve noticed that most of the time I try to make the 1-2 shift at high RPM, I get really terrible grinding coming from the tranny. It only happens at high RPM (5000+) and it doesn’t happen every time, but it happens enough for it to be a concern. If I clutch in, let the revs drop a little, then throw it into 2nd, there’s usually no problem.

I have the CAGS (1-4 skip shift) eliminator installed. I had the dealership replace the clutch packs under warranty. Apparently they screwed up because my entire clutch stopped working, leaving me stranded. After getting it flat-bedded to the dealership, I was told the entire clutch system was contaminated and the seals were destroyed. I’m not entirely sure what they did after, but they fixed it somehow (probably flushed the system and replaced the seals?). I also had a transmission leak (what a quality car, huh?) last fall that was also fixed under (extended) warranty.

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Mark writes:

I have a 2003 WRX with 198,000 miles. Only non-standard maintenance repair so far was a new driver side head and valves at 165,000 because a valve was hung and the head was starting to crack. Everything else, including clutch and turbo are original. Unfortunately, now the vehicle is burning 1.5 – 2qt of oil every 1000 miles. There are no leaks. I am tempted to trade it in for the nominal amount (Maybe $1-2k) and take advantage of the current new car incentives. However I hate to buy a new car if I can just feed this paid for WRX oil for another 20-30,000 miles. What do you think. Should I feed the car oil until the engine/turbo explodes or retire it and get another car?

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TTAC commentator Derek writes:

My wife and I purchased a low mileage (50k, now at 70k) 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan two years ago when our fourth came along. We understand that the Siennyssey twins boast better build quality, but we didn’t have to finance the Dodge. Plus, we figured that Dodge had been building the Caravan long enough that they had worked out most of the larger Q/A issues. So far that appears to be true. However, there is one issue we’ve witnessed that I don’t understand. Every now and then (once a month or so) all power will momentarily cut off while the engine is running.

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TTAC commentator Juniperbug writes:

I live in Montreal. Currently I have an old, unreliable sport bike as a recreational summer vehicle, doing most of my commuting via a mediocre public transit system. I’m considering buying a newish car for work and play. I’m 25, single, full-time employed at a moderately-paying job, and going to be studying part-time to boot. I love heel-toeing just about anything I get my mitts on, and am looking for driving pleasure and not outright speed. Spaciousness is not a priority for my current lifestyle (but is appreciated), but reliability and cost-efficiency are. A 2006-ish Miata seemed to be a great candidate, but while searching the classifieds I noticed that there’s a whole slew of RX-8’s available with around 20k miles for similar money as the Miata.

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TTAC snark-master Frank Williams writes,

My A4s both have a really bad problem with brake dust on the front wheels. Sometimes the wheels look almost like they’re black chrome instead of alloy. I’ve seen advertisements for dust shields that fit between the brake and the wheel that are supposed to keep the wheels clean (Kleen Wheels is one brand). I’ve always been wary of these, as I feared they might impede brake cooling and could result in damage to the rotors or even brake failure.  Have you or any of the readers had any experience with these? Do they really work, and are my fears of brake damage unfounded? And most importantly, do they look dorky – the automotive equivalent of a pocket protector?

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Hey. RF here. How’s it going? I’ll tell you how it’s going: it’s going well. Piston Slap has been an entertaining and informative addition to the TTAC cannon [sic]. Sajeev has proven himself a diligent and insightful advisor to the mechanically challenged amongst us. I fully expect The Divine Mr. M to syndicate Piston Slap nationwide, pouring tens of dollars into TTAC’s coffers, wetting our corporate beak. OK, so, now, the guy needs questions. Grist for his mill. Please take five minutes out of your busy day to pepper Mr. Mehta on the mysteries of mechanical malfeasance. Send your queries to mehta@ttac.com. Remember: they don’t have to be real questions. In the spirit of this website’s name, you can ask him something about which you already know the answer—just to show him up in the comments section. Anyway, Sajeev wishes his fellow Americans a happy Fourth of July weekend, and in no way hopes that you’ll have car trouble requiring his sage advice.

TTAC commentator Patrickj writes:

I have a 2006 Ford Freestyle with about 75,000 miles. I like it well enough, including the CVT, and it has been very reliable, but I can’t say I love it. Biggest current issue with the car is wear on the interior, especially carpets. The high depreciation is a sunk cost, and I’m not going to decide anything on that basis. Problem is, there’s nothing else I’m particularly eager to drive that has the cargo room, comfort for a big driver (6 feet, 230 pounds), and any better gas mileage for my long commute.

Several Piston Slap posters basically said that the CVT was something to run away from, and that I’ve already pushed it well beyond its expected lifetime. I had the fluid changed by the dealer at 55K miles.

Am I committing the car ownership equivalent of driving on the wrong side of the interstate? Is the expense of CVT repair that high and that imminent? At 3 years old, shouldn’t I be able to get a transmission from a low mileage wreck if it does fail?

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TTAC commentator Detroit-Iron writes:

I am in the process of buying a new car (despite Steven Lang’s admonitions). I would like to get a 2009 after the 2010’s come out, maybe a Legacy or Ralliart. My problem is that there is zero information on the specific month that a given manufacturer is going to release the 10s. I can understand the manufacturers and dealers wanting to keep that info under wraps considering the inventory but I would think that a journalist or consumer advocate would have it, but I can’t find anything.

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TTAC commentator Aren Cambre writes:

I have a question about my 2002 Nissan Maxima. A while back, I had the battery disconnected for a few hours. After reconnecting, the car forgot how to maintain idle right after starting: if I don’t nudge the gas pedal for several seconds after starting, RPMs fall to 0. Internet research is conflicting. Some say it will heal on its own, others say dealer-only repair.

It’s been a few months now. How do I fix this? Is it really dealer only? If I don’t fix, will I hurt the car? (I don’t mind nudging the gas pedal–kind of like when I set the carburetor choke on my ’74 Nova.)

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Thaddeus writes:

I’m looking to build more in depth automotive knowledge, and I think that (re) building a motor in my Manhattan apartment is a great first step. (Wife be damned.) With the hot summer coming around, and no vacation days left, this would also be a great summer hobby to keep me inside and cool.

I’m currently thinking about finding an old Ford flathead, as know how, and books on these is readily available–do you have a better suggestion? I’m looking for a block that’s well documented, has parts, or spares to be had, and won’t require a CompSci degree to fix or tune . . .

The end state of this project is to put it into some sort of hotrod, but that’s another question–for when I have a bigger apartment.

PS: Sub question…should I even attempt to fire this thing up inside if I get it built?

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