TTAC Commentator GS650G writes:

I am looking for a station wagon in lieu of a mini-van or CUV/SUV.  Whereas before almost all intermediate cars were available in station wagon trim it seems only European brands and a few Japanese brands such as Subaru offer a true station wagon any longer.

I would like to move up a bit and go with either a BMW 3 series wagon or Mercedes R Class. Both trade in the 22K to 28K range. I don’t care for Volvo or SAAB wagons and their recent ownership changes has me concerned about the brands.

The Beemer and M-B seem like well-liked cars with practical carry space along with excellent driving dynamics. I’m not concerned with repair costs since I do my own work no matter what I drive.

So which would be the better choice, a 328i Wagon or a M-B 320 R?  I would also compare to a M-B E-Class wagon if the price was right.

(Read More…)

Rich writes:

Sajeev,

My New vs. Used dilemma was posted on 2/4/10. Based on your advice, TTAC member feedback and other research, I have made my decision.  Last month I purchased a 2007 Ford Five Hundred SEL 2WD from the local Ford dealer.  The car is just off lease with 28K miles, mechanically excellent, interior almost cherry and exterior very good. The dealer was asking for $14K, I offered $12.5K and we agreed to the Edmunds price of $12.7K.  It drives pretty much as the critics say, great handling for a large car though a bit short on power. The power deficit is not terrible for everyday driving, I just need to rev it a bit.  The motor isn’t tuned for low speed torque; something like GM’s or Ford’s 3.8 would be a better match for this car than the Duratec.  The car returned 21 MPG in suburban driving on my first tankful.

(Read More…)

Tae-Moo writes:

Sajeev! Your bottomless well of knowledge and practical opinions has turned me into a huge fan of TTAC. With all your knowledge I hope you can answer a very broad but basic question of mine:

(Read More…)

Omar writes:

Hello all,

Love the site. One of the only sites that actually reviews cars instead of just reading like a feature press release.

I am in the market for a car. However, it is a bit different than most. I finally finished school and am in a position to buy a nice car up to about $200 000. I hate when auto sites use the line ”buyers in this category don’t care about costs”. I do! There is a difference between a guy who can buy one car like this and has to think about it vs. Someone with a supercar stable.

I am kind of all over the map right now. My main choice is a v8 vantage due to the not over the top looks and classic style. However, I am wondering if a pre-owned F430 or Gallardo would be a good choice. Or should I save up for another year and try for a 458? Each car has pros and cons and I’m still heavily leaning toward an Vantage. What would you do?

(Read More…)

Sean writes:

I am looking to purchase either a 2002 Acura RSX automatic with 105,360 miles for $6995 from a dealer or a 2005 Scion tC manual with 86455 miles for $7986. Which car do you think is better and a better deal?

(Read More…)

Steve writes:

Hi TTAC, long time follower here with a 2006 VW GOLF Diesel 1.9L.

The car was one of the last batch Mk.4 Golf’s with a diesel engine purchased in Canada where I live.  Since then, it has had small and large repairs galore including temperature sensor replacements, an entire transmission (Automatic Tiptronic, 09A, a big regret) replacement at 21000kms, rear hatch wiring adjustments (I noticed the hatch will not lock), front door hinge adjustment because the front 2 doors were rubbing against the top tips of the rear two doors and chipping away paint with eventual rust setting in.  Later on, suspension bushings up front were replaced, the left front headlights went out a few times and then came back by itself, the dealer could not find any fault.

(Read More…)

Keith writes:

Hi Sajeev and Steve,

God, I hope you can help me out with this one. I’m not much of a writer so I’ll skip to the relevant points:

1. I have a 1993 Chevy S-10 with ~100k miles that I paid about $1500 for. I just found out it needs $2000 in transmission/brake work (it also needs a new muffler at some point, but that’s not urgent). Many are urging me not to put money into the Chevy, but use my $3000-ish in savings to buy something else. I’ve always had terrible luck with beaters– I’m on car #8 at 22 years old– and I am very reluctant to buy another collection of unknown mechanical problems. Apart from the work needed, the truck is otherwise in pretty good shape.

2. I’m a student by night and an office worker by day, live in Orange County, so there are no real weather or space considerations. I just need a commuter car that *works* and possibly has some hint of style or sportiness.

3. My credit is absolute shit. As far as I know, my score is around 610 currently. I know that the credit markets have supposedly thawed somewhat, and if I were to use the money as a down payment I could hopefully swing a loan for a car in the $10k-13k range.

Right now I’m leaning towards a Miata on the beater side, financing something in the $10k range such as a used Mazda 6 or Fusion, or stretching things and getting a new Kia Soul around $13k-14k. Alternatively, I could spend the money on the truck and hope that engine problems don’t develop anytime soon.

Thoughts? Saving up more money isn’t really an option since without the transmission work the car doesn’t really have much longer. Thanks for any advice!

(Read More…)

Keith writes:

It’s time to buy my 17-year-old son a car; my wife’s previous car (a 2000 Mercedes E320 wagon) has cost us more than what it’s worth in maintenance one time too many. For his car, we’ve established two possible paths: a beater for now, or a moderately nice used car for now and later (through college.) For this beater, he’s narrowed the list down to just the 2001-06 Elantra, and the 2000-04 Ford Focus. For a nicer car, a 2005-08 Scion tC or 2004-07 Mazda3 seem to be ideal. Which path do you think would be best to go down? Are there any choices we’ve overlooked?

(Read More…)

Thanks to links from George sent to TTAC, Sajeev writes:

Maybe everyone does indeed hate the BMW 3 Series. Probably because we read about one person, IrishTarmac, posting about his ”ninth” HPFP (high pressure fuel pump) replacement.

While that scenario may be extreme, pump failure is not an uncommon occurrence. There’s a huge number of replacement HPFP’s in BMW’s inventory, according to this source. Could this be the end of the N54/N55 HPFP Fuel Pump Saga/Lawsuit? Per last year’s Autoblog post, BMW knows what’s on the line: the 10 year, 120k extended warranty is a good move. Question is, does that stop the class action lawsuit in its tracks? I certainly can’t find any updates on it. But I think a recall, out-of-court settlement and a fat check to the lawyers is the only way out.

More importantly: as direct injected/turbocharged gasoline motors become a large part of our automotive landscape, are we in for more problems? High-pressure fuel pumps probably don’t like running low on gas, turbo failures are likely after years of abuse and rapid carbon buildup—fixed with walnut shell blasting–are distinct possibilities with this brave new technology.

It might be our automotive future. Get ready for it. I’m investing in walnut futures.

Send your queries to mehta@ttac.com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.

Robert writes:

I just replaced the engine in my 2005 Porsche 911 due to the failure of the INTERMEDIATE SHAFT. I would like to know just how widespread the problem is with 911’s and other Porsche models too. Why?

I am considering filing a lawsuit against Porsche to recover the costs associated with replacing the engine. If you have had an INTERMEDIATE SHAFT failure and have an interest in joining in my lawsuit or simply sharing your experience please contact me: westsidetravelmedicineATgmail.com

(Read More…)

Vincent writes:

I’m having a bit of a dilemma in the car buying/selling front. First off, I’m a 21 year old college student. Last year, using money gifted to me by my wealthy grandparents (yes, I’m a spoiled brat. Sorry) I impulsively purchased a 97 Mercedes C36 AMG (yes, I’m an awful spoiled brat). It had a plethora of problems including the previous owner installing a faulty air intake, improperly lowering the car and damaging the suspension, and some thermostat issue. Several thousand dollars later, my mechanic got it back to speed. It hasn’t had any problems since, but I definitely can’t afford to fix it if anything else were to happen. Furthermore, premium gas is a bitch, especially here in Vancouver where gas is at an all time high. It doesn’t snow often here, but I’m not comfortable driving it when it does.  I am contemplating selling the C36 and purchasing something more practical (I’ve had it listed on classifieds for months, but eh, no bites)

(Read More…)

Marc writes:

As a long time reader and a new financial advisor, I am seeking advice from you and your readers concerning choices for a second-hand automobile. Here are the constraints:

1) $10,000 or less

2) Would prefer avoiding GM & Chrysler

3) 4-doors required (for clients and/or two under-five children)

4) Reasonable annual maintenance

5) Sporty OK but not flashy — message is ”prudently successful” not ”mid-life crisis on the client’s dime”

6) I’m a 47 year-old, married, 2 children, in southwestern Connecticut.

As a starting point, I see this as two basic options — Audi/BMW/Acura on the sporty side or Mercedes sedan on the prudent side. Which cars(year/make/model) do you or your readers suggest I consider? Thanks!

(Read More…)

Randy writes:

Dear Sajeev, I’m a middle-aged man in love with a cranky mistress. My 1999 Concorde LXi has developed a thumping sound from the right front going over bumps with the wheel slightly turned to the right. It currently has around 94k miles on the ticker. I enjoy this car for no other reason than it is a large fwd American sedan that can cruise the interstate all day long and returns decent mileage with the 3.2 liter engine.

I bought it three years ago from an elderly couple in Topeka. They claimed it didn’t run well and I being slightly mechanically inclined determined the belts were bad and a failed a/c compressor was the main culprit. At that time it had 36k miles on the odometer. It looks good, no rust, original paint and wheels. I have had all the services done including the timing belts, tensioners and water pump replaced for preventative care. The transmission fluid has been changed twice now under my care.

(Read More…)

TTAC Commentator jrominski writes:

Sajeev, re: New Or Used article a while ago on rust belt engineer relocated to Saltillo with $45k car allowance from first tier supplier employer to drive whatever he wants to drive for work.

Fast forward: 1 year in, he is handing in his employer’s used-up 1 year old V6 cayenne and taking a new GTI with the new engine next weekend. He drives hard, which is OK from destructive testing point of view. He asked for, and receives VW factory 17 wheels, unlike US public. They fit. (Cue old racing adage about brake size and wheel size)

His job prospects include offer to go to Mongolia – new plant there. Who knows what he’d drive there.

(Read More…)

Adam writes:

I’ve been mulling over a car-buying decision, and see you post similar things to the main page from time to time. Here’s my dilemma if you need some more copy.

I have a 1995 Jeep Cherokee Sport 5-spd as my skiing, biking and camping car. My mom got it new, and I bought it from her in 2000. It now has almost 200k miles, but it has led an easy life- it still has the original clutch. Oil has been changed every 3500 miles or so, and it’s been generally reliable, but it has the brake-pulsation problem I can’t track down, several rapidly worsening oil and coolant leaks (main seals, oil pan, valve cover), all the rubber parts on the car are rapidly deteriorating, and it needs tires, some front end work, etc. Figure about $1500 in repair. However, then I’ll still have a 16 year old 200k car I’m relying on to get me 150 miles home from the mountain on a 15 degree snowstorm. I’m afraid electronic parts and sensors may soon leave me stranded. It’s worth high $2000 range- it runs fine; the body and paint are very good.

(Read More…)