Scott writes:
Sajeev: I am 31 years old, married, no kids, and I have a 1999.5 VW Jetta, 2.slow, 150K miles. The 5-speed deserves at least a nod. Dealer-installed lowering kit and rims another. Bought in 2005, sunk $1000 into it that year (timing belt, ABS) then another $1500 in ’08 (CV joint, wheel bearing, etc), plus the odd $100 or $200. Or $300. Well, since last year I’ve let it go south. Window fell into the door so I propped it up with a stick. Check engine light and ABS light are annoying, so black tape on the dash. Keyless entry, heated seats, interior lights. The dings have turned into little rust spots on the body. Things I can live with (yes I’d like ABS but the mere thought may cause me to go postal).
As of right now it needs a wheel alignment and front rotors and pads, which I should tend to for safety’s sake. But I was also told a year ago that I need new shocks. And when I turn the steering wheel, some other bearing makes noise. It idles a bit rough. Starting to burn oil. Squealing sound, front right, once in awhile, might be another bearing.
Thing is, I like it anyway. It starts fine every time. I can do on-ramps at three times the yellow sign. Up on the hoist, the bottom is free of rust and scratches. It looks cool, black as night, and I still get compliments on it. The wife says that when I trade it in to get something more practical-she also has a compact car. I can budget up to 20K or more.
Or zero, I’m also cheap.
What say you? Is this it? Did I drive it until the wheels fell off? I know, I know, ’07 Mazda 6, but really?
Sajeev Answers:
So you are cheap and you like this car. Which I understand, as this Jetta re-invented VW’s place in the USA, universally admired on styling alone: durability and component cost notwithstanding. My recent (Christmas Eve) jaunt to the junkyard included a brief moment with a Jetta of this vintage. It was my favorite color for this body, silver. This unit was just too wonderful to be there: like many of the sedans from our past, making us long for a pretty little four-door to get us off the high and mighty CUV crackpipe.
Dare I admit it, I frowned more than a little at the sight of that car: it’s elegant and clean lines, sitting on the wheels of another crushed car, fairly worked over by the yard and wearing the residue of where the “Jetta VR6” decklid badging used to live. No, I didn’t shed a tear…I didn’t hang around that long. Plus, a Ford guy normally runs out of tears with all the company-saving Sable/Taurus products and hot-roddy Fox-Panthers that no longer have a home to love them. But I digress…
You see where this is going: advice to keep your Jetta alive, should you choose to be less “cheap.” Because owning an older (yet still late model) vehicle is an exercise in wise, calculated investments. The cash spent either makes the car safe/legal or more exciting. The first includes fixing the wheel bearing noise and black tape “mod” on your dash. The latter includes those (infamous) broken window regulators, Bilstein-esque shocks and a better stereo. Spend your money in the right places and you’ll be both safe and unbelievably happy.
Now the tough part: don’t be passive. You don’t have kids, but pretend this is one. Take an active role in your Jetta’s life. Know your mechanic. If he doesn’t let you put a wrench on your own car when it’s on the lift and/or curse freely about your POS car, consider another, more self-aware mechanic. But most of all, read the VW forums, VWVortex is an awesome one. I read it and I own a 15-year-old Lincoln, so you have no excuse.
So yes, be yourself and own one of the “cool” Jettas. But it takes much more effort and a bit more money. Otherwise, that Mazda6 looks better and better everyday.
Send your queries to mehta@ttac.com. Spare no details and ask for a speedy resolution if you’re in a hurry.
Why is the picture of a MK III?
I was about to say the same thing, and, no offense Sajeev, but your answer makes me think you believe you are writing about the third gen and not the forth. Given personal experience, as well as the experience of several contacts and all of the internet, very few people (I won’t say NONE) would ever recommend keeping and pooring money into a forth gen Jetta. They were good cars, new, but used they are hopeless, unreliable and extremely expensive. I’m sorry Sajeev, but this answer would seem to be way way off, as most of the comments seem to reflect.
Picture error was my fault, not Sajeevs. Deepest apologies.
Ahh, nice picture choice. That gen looked perfect with those rims. I’m still mystified by Sajeev’s answer though. My eloquent answer would be something along the lines of “RUN! RUN FAR FAR AWAY!!”
And this is coming from someone who owned the most reliable model of them all: the diesel.
I tried to tug at everyone’s heartstrings, you can’t blame a guy for trying. Well, you could and probably should. This is a late model VW product, after all.
I’m gonna go back to recommending that everyone buy Panthers. (kidding)
Aha, heart strings are nice. I loved almost everything about my Jetta, and mine didn’t even have any major issues in the two years I had it between 2006/2008. However, the data against them is just too conclusive.
There’s a third way: they still make brand-new 4th-gen Jettas in China (see it here)…though I have no idea how difficult or expensive it would be to import one and federalize it, nor do I have any idea whether it drives anything like Mr. Scott’s.
Nevermind…that’s a 3rd-gen Jetta, not 4th-gen.
Nevermind…that’s a 3rd-gen Jetta, not 4th-gen
That’s actually a Mark 2….sold here in the US model years 1985 thru 1992,
Interestingly, you can still buy a Mark 4 Jetta in Canada called the Jetta City
It was a MkIII. Ed fixed it so it’s all academic now.
I am going to channel my father, who after your description of the Jetta would say, “they use to shoot horses.”
If you love that 2.slow Jetta with a five-speed, and you’re cheap, and you don’t want to spend more then $20,000 then here is the obvious choice. A brand new base Jetta with a two.slow under the hood with all 115 glorious HP and all the cheapness you love for under $16K. Ahhh, but that $16K does get you all the modern safety equipment.
Your current iteration of Jetta is during some of VW’s darkest days and your list of problems is very significant. The money you’d spend to make it safe again would easily cover a downpayment on a new Jetta and it would be 1999, all over again!
I used to own one of these, and it was a money pit. It did drive about 2/3 as well as a BMW, with about double the maintenance/repair costs.
Dump it and get a nice used Acura, Infiniti, or Lexus.
Some people have a lot of patience (or are gluttons for punishment). I would have kicked that to the curb many years (and thousands of dollars ago). Time to move on.
These cars are maintenance nightmares, I would never advise anyone to buy or keep one. It’s too bad because I love the way VW’s look and handle, but I’ve had too many friends and family members own VWs from this era that will tell you what lemons these cars can be. Even VW loyalists will tell you these cars have a lot of issues, and the 2.0 engine means it’s a dog anyway. (0-60 in around 10 seconds)
I would advise dumping it, you’ve already spent in maintenance more than the car is worth in the first year, and you still have issues. It’s just not worth the headache imo, and you can find similar cheap, sporty cars with MUCH better quality (Acura Integra, Infiniti G20, etc.)
If you love it that much turn it into a hobby. Learn to do the labor yourself. Keep it till you’re 90 and then donate it to a museum.
If you don’t want to learn to wrench yourself and make the investment in tools and you’re scoffing at the standard “Mazda 6” suggestion then go get a Mazda 6 Sport(wagon.) I’m sure you’ll get almost as many compliments on it from the CUV driving drones who forgot how good looking and cool a wagon can be. (Yeah you don’t have kids… yet. Remember Dave Barry; “Babies are one of the hazards of sex.”)
At least in the US, the 6 wagon was only available with the V6. Depending on the buyers priorities this is either a good or a bad thing.
(There’s always the hatch, which is pretty easy to find used in the 4cyl/5sp flavor)
I owned an ’01 Jetta GLX with a VR6 and a five-speed manny, which I bought used in ’04 for about a third off sticker, when it came off a lease. I really liked that car. I thought of it as a kind of poor man’s luxury car.
Unfortunately, a woman in an SUV came sailing through an intersection while I was making a left turn on a green arrow. I was fine except for an airbag burn on the wrist, thankfully, but my car didn’t make it, thanks to the exorbitant price of airbags. If you car is worth about $8,000 or less, and both airbags go off–hello junkyard.
Sad to hear about your car (my Mazda MX-6 met the same fate)! What is it about the VR6 versions of the Mark iV Jettas? — They seem to do better than the 2.0s and 1.8Ts in the long run.
I bought a 5 spd. 2000 GLX VR6 (black w/ tan leather) in 2002, it had 45k mi at the time. Just a couple small issues over the years: window regulator, ignition coilpack (all 6–known issue), O2 sensor at 90k miles. All fixed for a couple hundred bucks. It’s lived in Boston, Austin, and Norcal. Still driving it today at 95k, runs like a dream, shifts smoothly, gets 29-30 mpg on the highway at 70+ mph. My heart yearns for an E46 ZHP, but I just can’t find a valid reason to dump my flawless VW companion.
I live in CA now, where cars tend to survive, but the only MKiVs I see around are the VR6 ones. Did anyone else notice this? Anyone else having the same luck with a VR6 car? Or am I exceptionally lucky?
What are you driving now Healthy Skeptic?
If you don’t do 90 percent of the work on this car yourself, you can’t afford to own it. Be grateful that it’s given you clear warning of its intentions to nickel and dime you to death.
Dump it. Some kid out there who doesn’t yet understand that VWs and Audis are the British cars of this generation will surely be smitten with it and will pay you more than it’s worth.
That’s the best analogy I can think of. They really are the British cars of this generation. They’re seductive, but every single person I know that’s owned a modern VW or Audi NEVER buys another one. I’m not saying they’re all bad, but people are delusional if they think these cars don’t have a lot more issues than a run of the mill Honda or Toyota.
Don’t do a thing to it and keep driving it. This car already has 150K miles and will never be collectible anyway. So a window regulator is busted. Fine, don’t use that window. Keep the tape on the ABS light. You don’t need ABS and you do not need to spend $1000 on wheel sensors and labor. Don’t spend a penny on shocks or an alignment. Motor oil is cheap. Don’t bother with oil changes, just keep topping up as necessary. Brake pads make sense but forget new rotors. Make it a game — see how long you can keep her without spending money.
+1 — excellent advice. Its a cool looking POS now, so just limp it along until it really dies. A 99 Jetta is worth maybe $3k and thats if it doesnt have issues. Yours is beat, you should have never let it go, but since you already did, then work the depreciation until it dies. To trade it is to essentially give it away.
I would agree, except that the brakes are shot, which constitutes a serious safety issue.
As Bones in the original Star Trek might say “She’s dead, Jim.”
One thing you may try for the ABS problem is to clean the contact on the wheel sensors, sometimes water can go into the connector and make it false-contact, I already tried that on a Cavalier which was diagnosed with bad sensors on 2 wheels… a little contact cleaner and the Light went off, and the ABS on!
Other than that Well I am not a Pro Jetta man… I would let it go I already hate the 2.Slow engine.
Technologically an oudated engine…And still sold in Mexico on the Jetta Classic!
Salu2!
My advise would be along similar lines. However I’d keep changing the oil (it doesn’t cost much) and try and clean up the ABS sensor as per J Mendez’ advice. Failing that I’d keep an OBD II reader in the car and turn off the dash warning lights whenever they appear. I do it so my wife doesn’t start worrying!
If it’s relatively mechanically sound – run it into the ground.
Oddly enough 1999 was the last model year VW product I owned as well. That was after 9 VW/Audis over a lifetime. Swore never again. That was a Passat. Bought new. Great engine. How I loved…hated that car.
i still look. Especially at GTI’s…but I’ll never ever buy one. Don’t sell it. Burn it and enjoy the warmth you feel from watching it burn. Then get…anything else.
All those cars burning in Paris on New Years…they’re all VW’s. The press missed that part.
Took the words right out of my mouth – kill it with fire.
As much as I really wanted to like my little Golf, I’m glad it is gone.
As the owner of a Mk4 Jetta, I can tell you a few things about their care and feeding.
1. The broken window is a known issue and more importantly the subject of a recall. A dealer will fix that free of charge.
2. The ABS light is most likely a wheel sensor while the Check Engine light could be anything. Find someone near you with a VAG-COM and have them pull the codes.
3. Front wheel bearings on VWs are maintenance items, like an oil change. In fact, if you have a bad enough front wheel bearing you might have wiped out an ABS sensor.
4. Brakes are pretty easy to do on the Mk4.
Yes, VWs do require a little more care and feeding than your typical Honda or Toyota. If you like VWs, it is all part of their charm. If you don’t, well…
While I’m all for keeping an older car, these things are notorious money pits. It already sounds like a basket case. The time when you could have wisely invested money in keeping up this car passed already. At this point all the problems are too much to spend the money on. Better to put that money towards a new car that’s in better shape and more reliable.
As an owner of an 06 Mazda 6 Sportwagon, I’d advise staying away from 3.0 duratec Mazda 6’s due to hesitation issues that can develop because of a crappy throttle body design.
Id also call it day on the Jetta.
Yup, sadly the 3.0L DURATEC in the Mazda’s from that era are pretty crappy.
If this was a TDI it would be a no brainer, it’s hardly broken in. As a 2 Slow it’s more problematical. Is there Air Quality requirements for your state? If so, I would think that at 150K it’s going to be progressively more expensive to get it to conform from now on.
Your best bet is to get a good independent mechanic, preferably one that specializes in VW’s (they’re out there) and have him go over the car thoroughly. He (being sexist) can give you a much better picture of what the future will bring in terms of costs. Simple things like that bearing noise you hear which probably is the strut bearing and will be fixed if you change your front shocks can be budgeted for but some of the future mtce issues will needto be evaluated.
The Jetta is a good car (ignore the noise from the previous posters) but they’re not immortal. Face it, it’s a 12 year old vehicle. Time may be up. If you really like it get a newer version. MkIV’s were made until 2006.
Notice that most of the people knocking the the car in this thread are doing so based on second and third hand information? Seems to me that those who are speaking from the experience of ownership are more positive about the Mk4 Jetta than those who haven’t.
Jimal, I see two types of posts knocking the car in this thread: Those who have owned a late-model VW and agree that they require a lot of repairs, and those who haven’t but agree (based upon their experiences with other makes) that the OP’s car requires an unreasonable number of repairs.
Agreed. The TDI is the one to grab from the Mk4 era. Mine is still running strong after 170,000 miles. I just did a brake job on it, and it barely cost me $60 for the full set of pads (well, it would have been about $90 but I noted the sign on the counter at the local NAPA saying it was “Ladies night” and everything was steeply discounted for women… I walked out and had the wife go pay for it all!)
Love my TDI.
Have to agree with everyone else, this car isnt worth saving. But, dont sell out and buy Honda or Toyota. If you love VWs, then dump yours and find either an older Mk3 or Mk2 thats been well loved, or a newer Mk5 with significantly less issues. It will still drive like your Mk4, but as long as you keep it maintained it wont kill your budget. Or, I suspect if you like the way the Jetta drives, you will LOVE the way a solid BMW drives. At the low end, find a well preserved E30, or spend a bit more and pick up a clean E46 325i. The E46 is one of the best sedan designs BMW has done, and they are still relatively reliable and efficient.
+1 on the E46. Still has a spare and dipstick. Get a manual. At this price point it will have 60k on it and need control arm bushings. DIY for most things, ignore “lifetime maint” and you’ll have fun.
My local car dealer always has a 325i on the lot used for @ 17k-they sell a lot of them for a chrysler dealer-but get them at auction.
Um, yeah. It’s a wrap. Surprised to here that these are the extent of your problems thus far. My sister had a ’99 Passat new and at about the 4 year mark it became a black hole – $1-1.5 grand in yearly repairs. Finally got rid of it last year.
I notice a tenor of disdain with regards to the Mazda 6, however, you will like that car. A low mile 4-pot can be had at stupid cheap prices and the motor has more than enough guts for your needs it sounds like.
Even better: previous gen Mazda3 5-door with the 2.3 liter motor. It’ll be roughly the same size, offer more utility, a damn sight quicker and just as good looking.
don’t go near a Mazda3 unless it has full records of rust proofing (assuming its been driven in winter salt), otherwise it will rust out from under you faster than you can drive it
The 4th Gen Jetta is one of the major reasons why VW earned a reputation for unreliable and low quality and dropped near the bottom in rankings. Though I’d prefer keeping a used car as you know its history and can make sure it’s properly maintained…that car is just not a car I’d consider keeping. You really want to cheap out…get the 2010 Accent outgoing models for <$10k out the door with the 10 year / 100k warranty. They are surprising reliable and with 10 year warranty you don’t pay a cent for any repairs outside of routine maintenance (which is cheap compared to a German car).
You can keep the car and learn to work on it like noted above. This will be the cheapest thing for you to do but in the sake of having this as your reliable daily driver…I’d sell it and get something used and well built.
I hate the brakes on the subcompact and compact Hyundai/Kia cars. They’re touchy and don’t feel right; I either don’t brake enough or lock up the wheels easily. Other than that, the Accent is a great car.
Repeat after me!
“There is no such thing as deferred maintenance on any European car.” A lot of the cars that turn in to money pits end up that way because of neglect.
If you choose not to pay the price of admission and maintain your car, buy any number of nice bland automobiles.
All of those things are fairly minor except for the check engine light which could be something simple like an oxygen sensor or something potentially catastrophic like the timing belt jumped a tooth. However having it checked out seems to be way to inconvenient.
As the former owner of many VWs (inlcuding this vintage Jetta – which was my last) I’d get rid of it for as much as you can get, which won’t be much, and go buy yourself an Integra.
Save yourself from an unending string of expensive repairs.
Why can’t VW make a damn window regulator that lasts?
VWs aren’t typically cars that mechanically challenged people should own, unless you have lots of money to throw away on dealership/independent repairs.
And as other posters have said, it’s not a very special car. A4 (1999.5-2005) Jettas with the 2.0 litre engine and a 5 speed are a dime a dozen. I was about to cry when I read how much you’ve spent doing basic maintenance on it. It seems as though it’s all been done at a shop because keeping a VW maintained can be a reasonable cost if you buy the parts online and do the labour yourself. So my advice is to either figure out how to keep it running yourself, or dump it and get something else. The window regulator problem is widely known and VW does have an extended warranty on it. If you decide to keep it, consider investing in VCDS/Vag-COM so you can scan it for codes at home. (ross-tech.com). A complete brake set can be purchased online for about $120 (idparts.com).
And as a disclaimer, I own two Jetta TDIs – a 2000 with an automagic and roll up windows, and a 2003 with a 5 speed and power windows. Most of the upkeep is done by me, except for timing belts and other jobs that I don’t want to attempt. A trusted local VW specialist does the other work.
*secret TDIClub handshake*
As Dimwit mentioned earlier, if it was a TDI it’s a no brainer. This one, being a gasser, is a little different. You’re right in that owning a VW takes more owner involvement than a Honda or Toyota that is very tolerant of neglect and using the wrong fluids and parts. VWs are far more particular.
That said, I’m always surprised at how many people spend $20K on a new car to avoid paying $3K in repairs to their old car. Just do the repairs the way they SHOULD be done, and do the safety stuff first (like doing a proper brake job).
If properly maintained, you can hit 400,000 miles like I did with my ’01 Golf TDI (ok, it’s a gasser…make that 200K miles).
*another secret TDIClub handshake*
My Golf TDI 2-door had something like 170k on it when I sold it for a good chunk of its original purchase price back in 2008. The Jetta TDI I took over from my wife in late 2009 when I put her in a Passat wagon has about 189k on it now. Apart from two freak issues with the Golf (A/C clutch died, as did a bearing in the original transaxle) both cars were pretty darn bulletproof. Change the oil every 10,000 miles and change the timing belt every 100,000 miles or so, do the other scheduled maintenance when it is scheduled and you’re golden.
Keep the car. But do just enough to keep it running. Nothing more. The car is nearing the end of its life.
Make it a game to see how cheaply you can make it to 200k miles.
Take the brakes for example. Just put new pads on. Don’t touch the rotors. Keep it cheap.
Take oil changes. Stretch them out. At this point, run dino oil and 10k miles between changes.
Don’t fix anything unless it actually sidelines the car. To me it sounds like you can run the car with its other issues without touching a thing. Maybe the wheel bearing but I bet you that it will make another 50k miles anyway.
This is the only way to keep an old German car running.
I think you can get another 3-4 years out of this car cheaply. Maybe by then you’ll have kids and you can decide on a newer car.
I have an mk 3 golf 5 speed. It has 240,000 on it, I keep getting it fixed. I dont understand how or why but it runs like its brand new. Still lots of fun in the twisties, but will cruise effortlessly at 70 or more all day long. Still easy to park, still carries 4, still has loads of room.
I keep fixing it. last week, it ws the mufflers (yes, it has two). 400 bucks ouch. Last year this time it was to fix a hole in the bottom, that was like 200 to weld on a new piece and re attach the seat. This summer, i will need a new ac part.
Could use a paintjob, haha, and the bodys dinged up a little from living outdoors in the city, i dont care. New radio? maybe?
I think that I could buy a new (or another car), but why? Just to watch it get all messed up? or have the usual maintenance costs AND a loan payment? No thanks.
Fix the Jetta. It may run forever! And it will still take the corners at 3x the speed of other cars then shrug it off and ask, “Is that all you got for me?”
There is no such thing as deferred maintenance on any European car. You gotta pay to play and it doesn’t matter what brand.
I would fix the brakes and find out the reason for the CEL. Could be something simple like an oxygen or temperature sensor or dirty MAF or something potentially catastrophic like a camshaft position error from a skipped camshaft belt.
This thing is too far gone as it’s not just the cars fault.
If you like your Jetta, sell it for what you can get out of it and get the nicest A4 TDI you can find (2004-05 model). Wife says to get something more practical? No problem. Get a TDI wagon with a stick. They’re coveted in the Pacific Northwest and command a premium price.
Your budget would get you into an even newer Jetta, but I’d stay away from the ’09+ TDIs. Read up on TDIclub.com, they have some extensive issues with the fuel system. Pain in the rear under warranty. And beware the DSG.
Things are not as bad if you think about it. It’s a 15 year old car, and your list of failed components does not seem to be entirely bad. I would try to fix it all as long as I knew that car’s drive train is fundamentally sound. I’d definitely try to get the car fixed if it was a 1.8T version. First of all, there is a ton of stuff you can try to fix yourself. The Window. Keyless entry, interior lights and heated seats may have stopped working because of a short in the circuit, blown fuses, or failed parts. Subscribe to Jetta forums and ask around. I’d never pay a mechanic do this stuff on a car so old. Next, brake pads and rotors are among the easiest things to replace yourself. Get autozone rotors at $30-$50 a pop, and Hawk brake pads for $30-$50. For safety, once you have replaced them, take the car to a mechanics and have them flush and bleed brakes (lots of coupons for this work).
Replacing struts should not cost more than $1000. I have an old Taurus and I got a quote of $500 for the fronts from Midas. That’s the most expensive thing to fix on your list. Old struts can also cause the noise that you hear when you turn the steering wheel. Although, on the car this old, it could be caused also by failing ball joints, control arms, or steering gear. For every other failed thing, do research and try to fix it yourself first. Fix the urgent issues first, and then work on the rest. But first of all, have the drive train checked out. If you find out that it’s not going to last long without expensive repair, then none of this is worth doing.
A noise that occurs only when you turn the steering wheel could also be CV joints. Figure at least a few hundred for replacement.
my vote is on strut bearings
If you’re doing the struts, might as well do the top mounts. I think Monroe sells Quick struts where springs are already compressed or you can borrow spring compressor from your local parts store. Many of them will lend you tools in exchange for deposit.
Sajeev… this has got to qualify as a new vs. used entry.
Everything mentioned about the Mk III’s being costly to own is true. I have a 1995 at the moment. Owned about 6 or 7 of them over the years including the TDI.
This is what I can tell you.
First, parts on these get taken off quicker than practically any other car out there. As soon as one of these are at a pull-a-part you can count on an army of Mexican banditos to strip every worthwhile part in the thing. I have literally seen full-time pullers follow these cars to their junkyard resting spot.
Second, you need to get a new mechanic. The costs you are quoting are a friggin’ joke. Find a shadetree or mobile mechanic who can handle the major issues, and let them take care of the big work. Ebay, OEM equivalent parts (or better in this case), junkyards, and a shadetree will keep your costs down.
Third, I would definitely subscribe to a few VW enthusiast sites and get a Haynes manual. Go buy some tools and learn how to do the basics. Oil changes, filters, fluids, and in the VW case how to detect vacuum leaks.
You should take care of the brakes and ABS sensor. The brakes should cost less than $200 if you use average parts with a shadetree, or do the premium parts yourself. The ABS sensor can be had on Ebay and I’m willing to bet the bearings can be found at the same place as well. There are also a variety of local ‘Foreign parts’ stores that can also fill in the void.
This car will cost you less, AND you will get more for it if you take care of the issues. Whether you want to be pro-active or lazy is up to you.
Good luck!
It’s just a car, a money pit at that, and high mileage VWs aren’t worth much once they start nickle and dimeing like this one is.
Buy something a little newer, used and with life left in it. A month later you’ll forget all about the Jetta, at least until you pull up next to a super hottie driving one just like your old one.
Then you can pretend not to look while your wife glares at you.
They make a window regulator repair kit for these. We used to install them all the time at the dealership. VW covered them for 7 years, 100k miles, unlimited owners. Of course this doesn’t apply to your vehicle, but the kit should be cheap and it’s somewhat easy to install.
Do yourself and the VW a favor. Sell it to somebody who appreciates it. Somebody who is partial to the brand and has mechanical aptitude will enjoy breathing life back into it. For you it is going to be a chore and some resentment will build up as you overpay for part after part. Especially those parts like window regulators that should last the life of the car but aren’t. Then buy something that’s four years old and save a pile of cash.
If you love something, set it free.
There are thousands of Kids who are able to attend collage because their parents made a fortune fixing Audis and VWs. Unfortunately, the number is nearly equal to the ones who couldn’t because their parents owned one.
Audi/VW: greatest redistribution of wealth that put even Obama to shame.
I have a Golf from that same era (a 2001), and it’s still a little tank. Tight, rattle-free, and other than the notorious window regulator issue (taken care of under warranty years ago), hasn’t had any problems. Considering it’s now two generations old, it can still hold a candle to newer VWs (aside from the DIN radio, with cassette, which seems really dated). The brakes and steering work really well, though it certainly isn’t the fastest car on the road.
Could it be the fact that the Golfs and GTIs were built in Brazil and the Jettas in Mexico? Or did I just get a “good one”?
I beleive that is not a matter on where they built them, but that it is a different car, heavier with the same powerplant and slightly different suspension.
I really don’t like how they handle and after a few years they develop a lot more noises than their competition (Nissan or Honda).
Here is the “New Jetta Clasico” comparative specs for Mexico, check that on the entry levels there is the same 2Slow engine with its impressive 115 HP.
http://mx.volkswagen.com/vwcms/master_public/virtualmaster/es_mx/models/Clasico2/ficha.variants-0_1_4.html
Saludos
To add to what others have stated, the interior lights and keyless entry not working is likely the CCM (comfort control module). Check fuse 14 (if I recall correctly). I had a short in a tail light assembly, just yank the offending bulb. Somehow that short would pop the fuse to the CCM periodically. Then you need to retrain the CCM, just work everything a few times. But it could be that there are leaves plugging-up the drains at the bottom of the car near where your feet are, the CCM could be getting wet.
The odd noise when steering could be a broken spring in the front suspension, take a good look. If it broke cleanly enough you can yank the broken end out and then it should make less noise.
About the oil, see if it’s frothy at the filler. If so, keep an eye on your coolant too.
Now see if you can make it to 200K miles after you do what others suggested.
Or just sell the thing, but don’t get into a car payment. Me I got so fed-up with my MkIV Golf that I sold it and hunted for a decent car to replace it with for months later. Eventually I bought a ’67 Volvo. That VW was the only car I ever bought new for myself. I loved it, but I hated it toward the end. I never regretted a car purchase more, and I bought a bunch of terrible barely running crap when I was young, so that’s saying something. When I think about all that I could have bought with how much I put into that car, it makes me sick.