Longtime TTAC Commentator dolo54 asks:

You mentioned using GM syncromesh in your recent Piston Slap article. I have a 91300zx (NA) that has a very typical problem for the model. The syncro for the 5th to 4th gear change is worn (they were made out of too soft a metal until the 95 transmission). I use the recommended Red Line MT-90 transmission oil, which helped quite a bit. But I still get a bit of a grind unless I double clutch the downshift. I’m wondering if I could use this synchromesh safely. I’ve read that you can use a more slippery oil to cure the problem in the short term, but it increases wear and in a short time the syncro will be gone completely (great for a sleazy salesman I suppose). How does synchromesh work and would it speed damage to an already worn syncro?

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TTAC Commentator Kericf asks:

I have a 1998 Isuzu Rodeo 4×4 with the ABS light starting to come on intermittently. The first time it happened I thought I heard a clicking noise under the dash like a bad solenoid. I had to replace the solenoid for my turn signals once and it made a similar noise when they would go haywire. A lot of forums on the Rodeos point to bad speed sensor on the rear axle, but if it’s just a bad solenoid that would be easier. The truck has 214,786 miles as of this email and I am wondering if I should also worry about rubber brake lines deteriorating. I can’t find any leaks but I don’t want to blow a brake line in Houston traffic.

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TTAC regular VerbalKint asks:

1. Should (can) any type of lubricant (ever) be used on the treads of bolts being torqued to specification?

2. Have you seen this site? I thought it was pretty well done, how ‘bout you? I really liked their section on oil scams additives.

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Stewart writes:

The Jetta sludge issue had me wondering. I hyper-mile my 2003 Jetta TDI 1.9L which, of course, has a turbo. [Side note: if anyone wants to tell me what an idiot I am for mooching along at idle in 5th gear to get 70MPG, feel free to tell me why that’s bad. I am exquisitely sensitive to all the Type A drivers (going 15 MPH over, screeching to a halt at the next red light) and let them go by safely.] I change the oil every 5K miles with the recommended Castrol from the VW dealer. Here’s my question: I make my change just after a run of at least 20 miles and I use a suction pump to get the old oil out, a Pela PL-6000. I’m wondering if, by not draining the oil out the crank case plug, will I have sludge buildup in my Jetta?

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Frank Williams, former TTAC Managing Editor and resident snark-whiz, writes:

Oh Great Guru of the Gearbox, perhaps you can honor me with your wise words of wisdom concerning my ’99 Chevy Tahoe. It has the 5.7L engine and about 123K on the clock. At speeds above 50 mph, it surges when accelerating. This happens whether my foot is on the pedal or the cruise control is engaged. It’s almost like someone’s goosing the throttle and you can see the tach jump back and forth over a 2-400 RPM range when it happens. I use a Tier 1 gas in it and I’ve tried the easy stuff like fuel treatment, fuel injector cleaner and cleaning the MAS. So what should I look for now?

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TTAC commentator jpcavanaugh writes:

My mother is in her mid 70s. Of course, she drives a 2006 Buick LaCrosse with about 10k miles. It is the first GM car in our family since the 1970s. She planned to remain a loyal Ford customer for life after 20 happy years with a pair of Crown Vics, but she won the Buick in GM’s last Hot Button contest.

I recently learned of this stuff called DexCool that is the factory-fill radiator coolant. From what I have read, I do not much care for this stuff. If it were my car, I would drive quickly to my independent mechanic and flush the system with the old-fashioned green stuff. So what do I tell mom to do? The choices, as I see them, are (in order from my least to most favorite ideas):

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John writes:

Sajeev, a buddy at work paid 26k for a 2006 530ix with 39,000 miles. The seller is a pretty, late 20s heiress who had a new Bentley in the driveway. She wanted 30k but took the cash. My buddy does not know anything about working on cars and hopes that it does not break before 150,000 mile like his parents old 5 series. He left message at local dealer asking about cost of extended warranty. They didn’t call back.

I tell him to go there in person, ask, then offer 2/3 and see what they say for factory CPO deal. Don’t take other than factory warranty – BMW as counter party. He thinks maybe not since its only two years left with any extended warranty, saying “so what, tires wear out, right?”

I say, “Yes. And heads warp and trannies stop shifting too.”

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Theodore writes:

Here’s one for you: what’s the best way to secure a parked manual transmission car? I leave mine with the parking brake on and the shifter in first. My cousin puts the brake on and the shifter in reverse. My brother-in-law puts the brake on and the shifter in neutral. So putting the brake on appears to be universal, but where should the shifter be? Is there any extra wear and tear from leaving the car in gear?

Sajeev answers:

Definitely park the vehicle, apply the parking brake and leave in gear. Engaging the clutch ensures the car won’t roll in the time between disengaging the parking brake and putting your foot on the brake pedal. Kinda makes sense when you think about it, no?

Leaving the car in gear won’t increase wear on the engine or clutch, unless you like to crank ‘er up without depressing the clutch pedal. Which assumes you hacked the system to allow the starter to crank without the clutch switch activated. If you went to all that trouble, perhaps you should find another hobby.

As far as your chosen gear, that’s irrelevant: all you care about getting the clutch connected to the engine. Since you mentioned it, I like second gear: it’ll slide in with a mere slap of a wrist from my billet short-shifter.

[Send your technical queries to mehta@ttac.com]

Mark from Klamath Falls, writes:

My friend from Europe is visiting the USA next summer. We’re planning a three week road trip around the American Southwest. He’s a car fan (Alfa Romeo variety), and wants to tour around in something typically American with a V-8 and a drop top. I normally drive a Miata, but that’s too small for all our stuff, plus no V-8 (at least not yet).

I figure I can buy a previous generation (2004 and older) Mustang GT convertible, drive it for the summer, and then sell it for about the cost of a rental.  My question: what suspension modifications do I need to make beyond new tires and shocks to make the Mustang handle reasonably well (not Miata-like but close) without resulting in a ride that beats us up on long trips? I’m thinking Panhard Rod, but am open to any ideas that cost less than around $1,000 in parts (I can do the install myself for anything short of major surgery).

Please note: this has to be an American V-8 convertible – don’t bother suggesting alternative cars that don’t fit that criteria.

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Nathan writes:

I have a 1999 Dodge Stratus. Lately, after I drive and get out of the car, I go around the back of the car and notice my brake lights are still on. They start to turn off with a tap of the brake pedal. After this started occurring more often, I changed the fuses as well as the battery. Unfortunately this problem is still coming back. Any advice?

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Longtime TTAC reader dastanley writes:

As a TTAC reader and sometimes blog participant, I have a question about motor oil in our 2008 Hyundai Tucson with the 2.7L V-6. The owner’s manual recommends Quaker State 5W20, 5W30, and 10W30 in that preferential order. Why Quaker State? Is there an engineering/operational reason for that particular brand or is that a marketing deal where Hyundai gets cheaper oil for their new cars off the assembly lines if they recommend Quaker State?

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George writes:

I own a 1999 Honda Accord EX V6 Coupe with 103k miles.  Should I sell it now or keep it?

The Positives:

1) Purchased new with 9 miles on the odometer.

2) Used Mobil 1 synthetic oil changed at 5k intervals.

3) Stays in a garage at night.

4) Reliable with only Delphi alternator failure outside of warranty.

5) Still looks good.

The Negatives:

1) Design defects in automatic transmission.

2) Only drained and replaced transmission fluid at 90k miles per manual instructions.  Should have replaced earlier.

3) Due for expensive timing belt replacement.

Normally a fairly well maintained used car is worth more to its original owner than to someone else, but the 1999 Accord has an unusual combination of a high resale value combined with significant transmission problems. Looks like a case where I should sell it now before I have to spend more money on the car. Any thoughts?

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Tom in North Carolina asks:

Sajeev, my 2005 Dodge Durango (4×2 Limited with Hemi and tow package) hit a critical juncture in April. The truck hit 70,000 miles meaning the 7/70 power train warranty expired, and Chrysler just BK’d. Since the vehicle is in great shape, good for road trips, is all but paid for, and is worth less to a dealer than it is to me, I plan to keep it for awhile. I have been told the 5.7 with the 5 speed auto is a fairly bulletproof power train, and with proper care and feeding should last a long time. The truck gets no severe service and is driven fairly gently, 70/30 highway/suburban use, 18,000 miles per year.

To keep it running I am debating keeping with the OEM scheduled 5000 mile oil changes (usually available for about $22) or switching to Mobil One at 10k or 15k change intervals. If I switch to synthetic oil, would you suggest a “better” quality oil filter (and what brand)?

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Jim from Regina, Saskatchewan, asks:

Automatic transmissions obviously require some upkeep to keep them in good condition. What about manual transmissions? What sort of maintenance needs to be performed on them, if any, to maximize their life? Is the reliability of them higher enough that more drivers should be considering them? I’ve owned five cars with manual transmissions (transaxles really), and only one of them ever gave me trouble. It was a 1990 Hyundai Excel (I can see the readers’ eyes rolling already). With almost 190,000 km on the clock, it became impossible to downshift into second without double clutching. I have learned enough about manual trannies since then to think that it was probably a failed synchro, and my mechanic’s advice at the time (“Live with it.”) was probably good, considering the likely cost of correcting it and the value of the car.

I drive manuals because I like the control, and the lower purchase cost is a bonus, but I imagine in my head that I’m going to get a longer service life, too. I wonder how accurate my assessment is.

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Mike from Rhode Island writes:

I have a ’99 Nissan Maxima purchased new with 124,000 miles which runs like new. I have had to recently replace the starter/battery and it has had several electrical issues in the past such as starter coils. Engine oil is changed at 5,000 miles with synthetic and book is used on all other fluid changes.

The total repair costs have been averaging app. $1,000 per year for at least 2-3 years now. Since major parts are original such as transmission, water pump/radiator, etc., I feel it is only a matter of time that a big item will require a major repair bill.

At what dollar price point is it reasonable to keep spending money on repairs for a 10 yr old car, per year? I am not mechanically handy.

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