Chris writes:

Hi, Sajeev. I’ve got a Piston Slap question for you. I have a 2003 Jetta with a 1.8 L turbo engine. Recently, the water pump failed (at about 68k miles). My imminently competent and trustworthy local independent garage replaced the water pump and told me that they heard a tapping sound coming from the engine. They changed the oil and the sound seems to have gone away, but I was advised by them to trade the car in right away if the sound comes back. Do you have any intelligence on 1.8T VW’s and what their longevity is after overheating?

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nweaver, longtime TTAC commentator, writes:

Assuming GM does go Chapter 11 and kills off Saturn, what happens to part support? I doubt it matters for my case, as a ’95 is old enough and common enough that its pretty much junkyard/recycled/remanufactured for anything major at this point anyway, but what happens to those with newer models?

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Captainzerocool writes:

Sajeev, I’ve recently acquired a 1969 Ford F100. It is a solid truck with the 360FE and three on the tree. It does, however, have an electrical problem that I can’t nail down. Apparently, the key or the ignition switch isn’t needed to get the motor to attempt to turn over. Once I attach the positive terminal, the starter motor begins to rotate and will not quit until the battery is disconnected. The starter and starter solenoid have been replaced. Is there some random wire that isn’t/needs to be grounded? Any and all help is appreciated.

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TTAC’s very own David Holzman writes:

How high could a Prius or Insight climb before the battery would run so low as to cease contributing to horsepower? In other words, If I lived at the top of Skyline Drive and worked in Palo Alto (or had a similar commute somewhere else), would the electric boost cut out on the way home? How much elevation could either car cope with? And once the battery has bottomed out, how weak is the car going to feel? I’m guessing not nearly as bad as my then-8-year-old ’62 Falcon, which I could barely push over 30 in second, climbing the mountains in Wyoming, Utah, Nevada, and California. Still, would someone with this sort of commute want to avoid a hybrid?

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Kathy writes:

Hi, Sajeev. A coworker recently bought a new commuter car. Not some fancy $25K+ sports car (under $20K “sporty” commuter car). He talked about breaking in the new engine hard for the first 120 miles: putting the auto into gears 1 and 2 and redlining it. Driving 0 to 120 to 0 to 120 mph.

Supposedly it makes the engine better. Where does the TTAC community stand on this: easy or hard break in for a new car?

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Heathroi writes:

Remember the Focus with the wandering rear that I thought (ha!) might need lower profile tires?

Well as an update, it didn’t need tires at all. It needed new bushings all though the rear suspension. Which turned into a mammoth job of taking the rear suspension apart, cutting rusted bolts, frequent trips to the ford dealer for new control arms and lower A arms but back together in working order, like its new again.

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TTAC commentator and contributor David Holzman writes:

Like just about everyone else whose car is at least four years old, my windshield (1999 Honda Accord) is pitted enough to make driving into the sun a real chore. What can I do about it, if anything?

I tried some glass polish from one of the big mail order car stuff places, in Wash. State I think. (I’m blanking on the name, but I used to get their catalog). Cost about $20, didn’t do squat.

BTW, Car Talk got this question in the last two years, said there wasn’t anything you could do. That’s hard for me to believe.

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Reid writes:

My 1995 Lexus LS 400 needed a replacement computer to fix a known drivability problem related to the car’s throttle position sensor (TPS). Ever since I got the computer back, my car dies at low idle. I’ve reproduced it with the AC on, turning the AC off and then coming to a stop: it almost always stalls from its low idle.

When I originally had the computer checked out at a Lexus dealership, they said I might need to adjust the TPS after installing the new computer. I imagine that is what is going on, especially since the original codes from the (now replaced) computer said it was the TPS and I replaced it with a new one. Do you know if TPS adjustment is an easy fix that my mechanic can do?

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The Turtle Wax junket was a learning experience for everyone involved. Look for a branding-minded editorial and a product review in the not-too-distant future. But for now, let’s answer the B&B’s questions about Turtle Wax. Surprisingly, the amount of controversy over their ICE lineup was enough to merit a separate section. As always, The Truth About Cars is here for you, so don’t be shy if you need more info than what I’ve provided.

Harleyflhxi: Will Turtle Wax be coming out with a product to compete with the “Mr. Clean” carwash system?

Sajeev Mehta (SM): Turtle Wax says the Mr. Clean system uses parts and chemicals that aren’t part of Turtle Wax’s core strategy. Turtle Wax also says the Mr. Clean system isn’t doing well in the market; Turtle Wax isn’t feeling any pressure to revise their product technology or strategy.

Schm: What would be the best method for eliminating water spots (without buying a buffer)? I own a black car (I’m a masochist) and I can never seem to get rid of them. Is there a Turtle Wax product that can help me? I own a microfiber towel, and always dab dry; I just can’t seem to get rid of water spots. And I don’t want to spend a fortune.

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Michael K writes:

I have 2008 Corolla with manual shifter. There is almost no engine braking power when I downshift. I know it’s not a malfunction (it’s how it’s designed), but I would like to understand why.

For example, when I’m approaching a red light and I downshift, the car barely slows down. Even if I downshift to even a lower gear to keep the RPMs high, there is still very little braking power provided by the engine. Or, going downhill and downshifting to keep the car’s speed stable without touching the brakes works only on small hills. On a steeper downhill the car continues accelerating. Of course, it’s not as bad as if the car was in neutral, but still…

Before this Corolla I had a 97 Suzuki Swift with manual. One of the cheapest cars on the road, but the braking power of the engine was good.

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Mike writes:

I just thought I’d pass on an ongoing good/bad incident. First the bad: my wife’s 2003 Neon went into the dealer with a mysterious problem that they have determined requires replacement of the cylinder head. In a dramatic departure from my usual luck, the car is still under the 7/70 warranty so the expense will be small.

However the factory has informed them that they do not have a replacement. They are now checking with other dealers. Given that the Neon sold in numbers that Chrysler can only dream about attaining now, I cannot imagine this bodes well for anyone who bought a current Chrysler product.

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dperaza writes:

I need your opinion and that of the B&B. I need to change my current vehicle (1997 Honda Civic 2dr) for a car with room for 2 car seats because starting in August I will be taking the twins to daycare in the mornings before heading to work. We have a minivan as the “main vehicle” for long trips, going out with family, grocery shopping, etc. So I do not need or want another minivan nor an SUV. Taking into consideration all variables (price, fuel efficiency, resale value, reliability, maintenance, safety and performance) a 2009 Civic Si Sedan seems like a good all around car for what I need but somehow I keep thinking it comes up short in the performance dept. Second choice is the Mazdaspeed 3 but I am afraid of its long term reliability, resale value, integrity and maintenance costs. Third choice is the 2009 WRX but they seem to be having problems with rod bearings and quality seems down.

What other cars around this price would you consider that can offer similar attributes to these three? What about pricier cars, around $28K?
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TTAC’s very own William C. Montgomery writes:

I have a friend that is an incurable GM F-Body fanatic; he currently owns a Camaro (daily driver) and a Firebird (big block restoration project). He just turned 29 and should have outgrown these pubescent urges by now. His life is a never ending automotive drama of slumming around junk yards for cheap fixes, trolling online forums and classified ads, and experimenting with mail order enhancements to cure perceived performance problems.

I know you haven’t been able to kick your Fox Platform habit. Even so, I would like to know what you think I could do to help cure him from this filthy F-Body addiction.

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Next week I’ll be knee deep in carnauba, doing Q&A with the folks at Turtle Wax in Willowbrook, IL. I have questions of my own and none pertain to the wine they’ll serve at dinner. Readers of this series expect more than the standard PR spin; commenter Tosh previously warned me of giving hollow endorsements. With that—and TTAC’s mission—in mind, I will never forget who is the boss ’round here (hint: you).

So what would you like to know about wash/wax/polish/glaze/clay or interior care? Questions can be general or relate specifically to Turtle Wax branded stuff. No holds barred, obviously. And while we’re at it, thank you all for your continued support of “Piston Slap.”

Northyadams writes:

I have a 2004 GMC Yukon XL that’s developed a coolant leak that three shops can’t identify. Someone mentioned something about it on here. Does anyone have any more info—is this another GM problem?

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