TTAC’s very own Paul Niedermeyer writes:

I bought my ’05 Scion xB two years ago (used) with 15k miles. Perfect condition; mommy driver. Within a couple of weeks, I started hearing a chirping sound when the clutch was not engaged (pedal up); it stopped as soon as I put some pressure on the pedal. Bad throw-out bearing! Dealer confirms, replaces bearing, resurfaces flywheel, and throws in a new clutch as “goodwill gesture.” I’m very happy with how I was treated (it was under warranty, of course). They tell me these bearings hardly ever fail; I must have gotten a fluke bad bearing.

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CAHIBOstep, TTAC’s biggest fan on our Facebook page, writes:

My owner’s manual recommends 91 octane gasoline for my turbocharged five-pot (Volvo T5). There’s no 91 octane gas in Illinois, only 87, 89 and 93. When I was at the gas station the other day, I decided that instead of buying 93, I would mix equal parts 89 and 93 to get 91 (89 + 93 = 182/2 = 91).

Does this actually work? Does this make me the cheapest person in the world?

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GCH writes:

I bought a Ford truck in March 2008. By February 2009, after 10 weeks of winter, the magnesium chloride they put on the roads where I live had eaten through the chrome on all ten pieces of chromed plastic on the truck including the grill and door handles.  Ford refused any warranty coverage whatsoever. According to Ford, it is apparently my fault I live in the mountains where mag chloride is used on the roads. The local dealer at least let me buy replacement parts at his cost. I replaced the grill with a painted one but none of the other parts are available in paint grade.

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Ronman writes:

My issue is those front plastic headlight covers that go yellow. Is there an easy way DIY to polish them back to near-original state. I didn’t mention my car for the reason that I see them on a lot of different makes and models, and what annoys me even more than the inherent safety issue, is that how much would it cost manufacturers to use a good grade plastic that won’t go yellow after three years?

Shouldn’t there be a law enforcing lights that will stay clear, or are they going to start making earth saving bio-degradable seat belts that become outdated after about three years?

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Saad writes:

Mr. Mehta, how do you measure the octane rating of fuel? I have a 2008 base-model Honda Civic, with the i-VTEC 1.8L 4-cyl. It is the India-Pakistan-spec Honda Civic and is similar to the one in the US. Although it does not require premium fuel, it is recommended and I’m worried we might not find good quality petrol in the rural countryside.

Where we are going, the only signs of civilization are bombed ruins from a war in ’71. And I am weary of regular already. In the Pakistan summers, it gets really hot over here (being a Desi yourself, surely you must know, and you’re in Texas!). If regular is used while the air conditioning is on the engine timing retards terribly and it sounds as if the pistons are colliding with the valves at nearly every sudden throttle tip-in.

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John R writes:

My car has TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System). I have a set of wheels with fresh summer Sumitomos from a previous car that will fit my Sonata, but they don’t have the radio doodad in the rim. These tires barely have 500 miles on them and they are just sitting around. I want to wear them out and be done with them. Is it okay to mount them if they fit?

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MPAVictoria writes:

Hello everyone, thank you for taking the time to read my question. I own a ’97 Ford Probe with around 160–170 thousand kilometres. I am not sure because the odometer quit working about a year and a half ago.

In the last six months I have spent about $2000 replacing the timing belt, alternator, other belts, the exhaust system and the windshield. My mechanic is now telling me that I need another $1,500 in suspension work in the very near future. Plus, my car is now holding revs until it warms up so I think I may need to get that checked out, and I also think it will soon be time to replace the crankshaft ignition sensor for the third time in 4 years, about an 8–9 hundred dollar job. All of these expenses on a 12 year old car have got me thinking about replacing it with something newer.

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Matt writes:

I currently drive a 2001 BMW 525it (Touring) which has been a pleasure to drive. Unfortunately the repair costs are starting to drive me crazy and leading me to consider replacing it with something newer, warrantied, and more reliable. The budget allows for approximately $25K CDN total on either a new or gently-used car.

The requirements are that it must be a hatchback/wagon, must be a manual, and should be able to seat 6′ passengers in the back seat. I’ve racked my brain trying to think of a suitable replacement, the leading contender at the moment is a VW Rabbit, although I’m less than impressed by the 5-cylinder lump under the hood. I did have high hopes for the Mazda3 Sport but after trying it out I was less than impressed. So any suggestions, or should I just keep funding my mechanic’s kids’ university education?

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Stargazer writes:

I have a slight head gasket leak in a 1993 GMC van, 350 cu. in. engine. I know that I will have to replace the gasket eventually; however, a friend suggested a head gasket sealant. This sealant drops into the radiator, and seals the leak. This friend had worked on cars professionally, so his recommendation has weight with me. Would you recommend this fix for a one hundred mile trip? I need the van to tow something.

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Eric writes: 

I have a FWD car.  One tire has a nail in it and probably can’t be repaired.
1a)  If the replacement is the same model/size/brand tire, should I replace one tire or buy two? 
1b)  If one tire, should it go in the front right (to wear out the new tire faster, catch it up to the other 3) or rear (newer tires on back avoid oversteer)?

Same question as 1a and 1 b except:

2)  if they don’t have the same model tire, and I am offered a different tread but same size/manufacturer/all season…

Lots of people get nails in one tire only, so hopefully your answer will get lots of Google hits! Thanks!

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TTAC’s own David Holzman writes:

I was struck when I did my old Beetle review by how much worse the steering and handling felt than I remembered. The ’67 Imperial also seemed a lot floaty-boatier than I would have expected. Thus, I found very interesting your implication [in the Piston Slap question about the Explorer] that ride could deteriorate badly in less than a decade. Are old car reviews doomed to vastly underrate the cars relative to how they drove when new—unless they’ve recently been overhauled?

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Ryan writes:

I own a 2000 Mazda MPV, 165,000 miles, and it has been a wonderful vehicle up until this winter. Mechanically it is very sound, the motor, tranny and suspension are all very good. While it has been too cold to do anything about it, I have accrued the following list of problems though:

1. Radio went kaput (not a fuse, etc.); needs replacement.
2. Drivers door window gearing broke a tooth: will stick every 4″ when rolling up; needs replacement.
3. Passenger side door lock motor gearing stripped; needs replacement
4. Tires are now 75% gone.
5. Large crinkle in the front left fender (does not interfere with anything).

My wife is insisting that we replace the vehicle, so my options seems to be:

1. Fix everything with bone yard parts and sell (I was a mechanic in a past life, would do these repairs myself).
2. Fix nothing and try to sell.
3. Try to get it traded in for our next vehicle.
4. Donate and try to scarf a tax deduction.

Your thoughts would be appreciated!

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The Walking Eye writes:

Sajeev, I was reading (a recent) TTAC diesel engine thread and got to thinking about what it would take to slap a small diesel into my Cobalt. I’ve got the super base model w/ the 5-speed and so long as I get good gas, I get really good mileage out of it. However, I’m from IN and we’ve got crappy gas with extra additives that kills my mileage from 10-20% depending on the time of year. If I decide to do this, I’d aim for a small engine with around 150 hp and mileage in the high 40s.

I guess my main question is, how involved would this project be as far as other equipment that would need to change along with the engine? New tranny, computer, driveshaft, etc?

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Confused1096 writes:

I have a 2001 Ford Windstar LX that is slowly driving me (and two mechanics) crazy. I have an intermittent issue with hard starting and rough idle on initial start up. The problem will clear up after the van has been running about 4 or 5 minutes. There are no codes in the computer’s memory. I’ve been chasing this for a month now with no luck.

The van has 76,000 miles; it is equipped with the 3.8L V6 and a 4-speed automatic. Other than this issue it has ran great since I bought it three years ago. The battery is new, recent tune up, fuel filter, IAC valve, PCV valve, and coolant sensor. This thing has been babied since purchase (I’m a regular here, after all). Any suggestions would be appreciated.

It knows I’m car shopping. Could it simply be jealous?

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johnkr3 writes:

I have a question about a car that is hard to start. It’s a 1995 Olds 98 (52,000 miles) that I mainly drive on the weekends. It sometimes takes four or five cranks before it will start. Rarely does it start on the first try. This is annoying and embarrassing.

My suspicions lie with the key. It is the GM key with a security feature on it, a small black square with a metal slot in it.

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