TTAC reader Chris writes:
Regarding my 2007 Sonata 2.4L, 5-speed: can I use 0W-20 in place of 5W-20 and keep the warranty intact?
Find Editorials by Category:
Category: Piston Slap
John writes:
How often should coolant hoses be replaced on older vehicles? And not just when they start to leak! Should it be based upon age, mileage, climate of operation, or what? For that matter, what about the other hoses conducting pressurized fluids, vapors and the like? We have guidelines for belts and serpentines, but hoses?
TTAC reader Mockard writes:
As a web-savvy car enthusiast and budget autocrosser, I try to do a lot of reading before pulling the trigger on a big purchase. With a set of R-compounds now hitting the $800 mark, I want to make the most of my investment. The consensus seems to be that shaving tires can make them perform better and last longer, but I remain skeptical… The cynic in me suspects that shaving is just a way to reduce tire life and pad the shaver’s wallet to the tune of $10 a tire. Why couldn’t tire manufacturers just build tires “shaved” from the beginning, if there was a real advantage?
Mikey, TTAC’s personal window into the CAW, writes:
My 2001 Firebird 3800 V6 convertible will shear left hand motor mount bolts and break them off in the block. The first time it happened my mechanic replaced the original bolts with 8.8 hardness. It took 2 years and 15000 kms for them to shear again. This time he went to aircraft quality bolts: so far so good, but the car hasn’t moved 2000 kms since.
TTAC Commentator Heath writes:
A couple of months ago I got the SVT suspension for my Focus. Not want to blow the budget any more I left the 205/50/16s that the Focus came with and there is a unhealthy amount of sidewall flex with the 50 (Pirelli P6). The SVT had 215/45/17.
My question is when its time for new tires, should I go for 40 or the 45. I’d like to stay on the 16″ rims as don’t really want to get new 17″ rims as well.
Sajeev responds:
If you stay with 16″ rims and go for a lower profile tire, the change in circumference messes up the speedometer, gearing (lower profile means more gear and less economy) and increases the unsightly gap between the tire and the body. We did this for TTAC’s entry for the 24hours of LeMons, and the gearing advantage was totally worth it. On a street car? I doubt it.
TTAC reader JG writes:
Sajeev, do I have a question for you! Knowing the roads (and potholes) of Houston (like I know you do) here goes. I own a 2001 Ford Explorer 4-door. My pregnant wife curses the ride every time she’s in the car (whether it’s moving, or not). I have recently replaced the tires, which helped a little and ball joints up front. I’d love to get out of this car into something safer, but it’s not an option for a few more years. Is there anything I can do to improve the ride quality? I know I’m dealing with limited options with the solid rear axle, but there has to be something, right?
Sajeev writes:
I see two quick fixes: put several bags of mulch in the cargo area, or hack the muffler and run a straight pipe. (You can get away with it in Texas.) The mulch takes the bite off the leaf springs, and a large amount of ride quality comes from the rear suspension, fuel economy penalty be damned. But the straight pipe ensures your wife will never complain about the Explorer’s terrible ride. Ever.
Kevin writes:
I currently own a 2000 A6 Avant, and I’m moving from college to Chicago soon. I do love my car, except when it comes to paying the repair and gas bills. I’ve given up on anything even pretending to be sporty and I’d rather rent a car for track days.
I’m a consultant so I have to drive regardless of weather conditions, but maintain a sort-of-professional look (I’m afraid an F-150 won’t make it). My budget is less than $15,000 (2nd hand cars), and looking for a safe, reliable vehicle that doesn’t need lots of visits to the mechanic.
Sajeev responds:
I would recommend getting a Japanese or American sedan/CUV for maximum durability, efficiency and ease of finding cheap replacement parts. Steven Lang has mentioned that Toyotas, Hondas and some Detroit models fare well in the used car market. Which is good for you too: a last-gen Accord and the Ford Fusion have been reliable (in whatever short term evaluations I’ve seen) and are quite fun to drive to boot. One of my friends is a consultant (for one of the big firms) and his Accord EX fits the bill nicely.
TTAC hammers the auto manufacturers for their lack of branding fortitude on a daily basis. But my time earning an MBA mentioned something else: diversify your portfolio, lest you wither and die. Which, ’round these parts of the autoblogosphere, makes even more sense in tough financial times. So with RF’s blessing, The Truth About Cars ventures into the world of self-help auto advice. With a twist, because that’s how we roll.
Right. So here’s the plan. You email me (sajeev.mehta@thetruthaboutcars.com) with a question about your car. It can range from a technical or cosmetic problem, basic maintainence, performance modifications, or even make-specific used car purchasing advice. Using my 10+ years as a forum moderator and my accidential grease monkey knowledge, I will shine some light on the situation in true TTAC style. And that becomes a blog for the B&B to discuss. After all, the people who read this website have a collectively bottomless knowledge base, why not use it for the Greater Good?
Recent Comments